Paris Mens F/W 09 Schedule (January 22nd to 25th 2009)

[reborn]

Whos designing for Dior this coming fall season? still KVA ?

I believe it's still KVA.

[Pinoy]

hmm.. im not sure how i feel about seeing what abomination n(n) puts out this time around... ss09 was a definite wtf haha

interested in seeing how viridi-anne will change their aesthetic this FW seeing as their last FW collection was one of my faves. looking forward to rick and junya as well. im really hoping junya's menswear will move in a similar direction as his womenswear... definitely a big fan 'structural' clothing (not sure what you call it)

[darker shades]

Really? Mr Watanabe's menswear was playing safe last season, maybe it is because a/w is usually a stronger season for most labels. On the other hand Mr Watanabe's womenswear previous a/w was very strong I think. But I am not a big fan of his s/s that was recently shown......hmmmm guess one should never say never in fashion. But I agree I to am interested in seeing Mr Owens' menswear.....oh and Yohji + Comme. Anyone have any thoughts on Ute Ploier + Miharayasuhiro?

[Faust]

Interested what Yasuhiro has to offer, this past season was really strong. I don't think Junya plays it safe at all - what makes you say that? It's rather strange that you say that and are excited to see Rick. If there is one designer I am not excited to look at, that's Rick.

[Sombre]

It will be interesting to see whether Rei continues with the dark theme from last season - something tells me she will. I would like to see Junya get away from pink suits. The rest seem pretty predictable. I do hope that Ann creates something fresher then the past few seasons in terms of cuts. Also curious to see what Gareth Pugh cooks up.

Ann D has shown the same cut for as long as I've seen it, so I don't think it will change this season. But it is a refreshing juxtaposition to the skinny silhouette that has dominated the past few seasons (even if it has been declining).

I am interested to see Kris van Assche. Someone asked if he was still designing for Dior Homme, which I assume to be lack of confidence in his ability based on his previous DH collections. I think he's being limited at DH, or is struggling to find a middle ground between Sliman'e wildly popular vision and his own. With KVA's own line however, I can definitely see the direction he's taking and some of his personal signatures. I thought his A.W 07.08 collection was excellent,for the most part. A.W 08.09 wasn't as good, but I see the continuity of his vision and maturity of the line (the twisted zipper boot was amazing IMO).

For me A.W 08.09 was disappointing across the board compared to the previous A.W season in general, so I'm excited to see all the collections this time around.

EDIT: I just saw DH S/S 09 at Luisa via Roma. I take that back. The man is just struggling at DH. FULL STOP. I still have confidence in his eponymous label, though.

[darker shades]

Interested what Yasuhiro has to offer, this past season was really strong. I don't think Junya plays it safe at all - what makes you say that? It's rather strange that you say that and are excited to see Rick. If there is one designer I am not excited to look at, that's Rick.

Are we discussing about Junya's menswear or womeswear? Because his womeswear is definitely not safe, actually its a pleasure to view but his mens......well there so much one can do with denim.....and maybe I'm personally not a big fan of gingham print. With Rick.....well not so much "excited" more....here's hoping that his collection is good like '05-'06 era.....they were the interesting ones. But I did hear that Kanye West and Lenny Kravitz is trying to score tickets to his show with their entourage. That I don't understand.

[Casius]

I have a feeling Rick's collection for Men is going to blow minds this Fall; I don't know, just a hunch.

Here's to hoping Junya is bored with the deconstructed brooks brothers stuff and cranks out another collection like FW07. That shit was hard.

[Faust]

I have a feeling Rick's collection for Men is going to blow minds this Fall; I don't know, just a hunch.

Here's to hoping Junya is bored with the deconstructed brooks brothers stuff and cranks out another collection like FW07. That shit was hard.

Vrooom, vroom!!!

Darker Shades - I was referring to Junya's menswear. Don't think it's stale at all. Yes, he has an established vocabulary, but he tells different stories with it, which is a far cry from writing the same sentences over and over (cough, Rick, cough).

[Casius]

Faust- I agree. Although I like that Rick sticks to his look season after season because I always know I can count on finding something great.

But when designers try and change too much, it can result in disaster. Take Number Nine or even Dries SS09 (check out Antonioli's buy if you don't believe me, stuff looks like a cross between Abercrombie and Faconnable).

[casem]

My hopes are up for good collections this F/W too. Something in the air tells me it's going to be good. I don't know what, maybe just that crap has been swirling around long enough something good has to come out now, or the hard economic times will cause designers to put on their A-game.

I'm excited about it, any insider information for what to expect? Faust, any idea was Ms. Demeulemeester might be cooking up?

Concerning KVA, he does have a stronger direction with his eponymous collection. He's done a better job with "relaxed elegance" on his own (unlike Dior which shall be called "forced trainwreck"). I did like a few of his earlier collections, but he seems to be mining similar territory as D2.

[dji]

My hopes are up for good collections this F/W too. Something in the air tells me it's going to be good. I don't know what, maybe just that crap has been swirling around long enough something good has to come out now, or the hard economic times will cause designers to put on their A-game.

with the current economic climate wouldn't designers be more inclined to play it safe with their new collections rather than risk lower sales by releasing something different?

[darker shades]

Here's a quote from "Uncle Karl" about what he thinks of the current economic downturn.....

"I see it like a cleaning up - it was too rotten anyway - so it had to be cleaned up," the designer muses stoically. "I see it like a healthy thing - horrible but healthy, like some miracle treatment of the world."

It definitely time to "bring-it-on" as they say, or what The Preset's song says "I go hard, I go home".

[Faust]

My hopes are up for good collections this F/W too. Something in the air tells me it's going to be good. I don't know what, maybe just that crap has been swirling around long enough something good has to come out now, or the hard economic times will cause designers to put on their A-game.

I'm excited about it, any insider information for what to expect? Faust, any idea was Ms. Demeulemeester might be cooking up?

Concerning KVA, he does have a stronger direction with his eponymous collection. He's done a better job with "relaxed elegance" on his own (unlike Dior which shall be called "forced trainwreck"). I did like a few of his earlier collections, but he seems to be mining similar territory as D2.

Nope, my queen is silent :-). But I will be at the show. I wish I could share your optimism about the upcoming Paris collections, casem.

[Faust]

Here's a quote from "Uncle Karl" about what he thinks of the current economic downturn.....

"I see it like a cleaning up - it was too rotten anyway - so it had to be cleaned up," the designer muses stoically. "I see it like a healthy thing - horrible but healthy, like some miracle treatment of the world."

It definitely time to "bring-it-on" as they say, or what The Preset's song says "I go hard, I go home".

Karla lives in her own world, so none of her proclamations count.

[Casius]

Here's a quote from "Uncle Karl" about what he thinks of the current economic downturn.....

"I see it like a cleaning up - it was too rotten anyway - so it had to be cleaned up," the designer muses stoically. "I see it like a healthy thing - horrible but healthy, like some miracle treatment of the world."

It definitely time to "bring-it-on" as they say, or what The Preset's song says "I go hard, I go home".

I think quite the opposite will happen. That's if the designers listened to the buyers, whom of which are mostly looking for more statement pieces. Customers are less likely to spend money on expensive basics and instead splurge on a more extreme piece which will set them apart. At least, this is the way I have perceived comments buyers made after SS09.