Jil Sander Womenswear FW07/08 - Milan

[laika]

Re: Jil Sander Womenswear FW07/08 - Milan

[quote user="macuser3of5"][quote user="laika"]

I've always thought Jil Sander prices were ludicrous--I don't care how good the quality is, I'm not shelling out 1k for a cashmere shell.
[/quote]

Lol, I hope my post didn't come across as justifying the insane prices for Jil Sander (or anyone, for that matter). I buy 100% off-season and on sale, which even then is hard to justify sometimes.

[/quote]

Not at all, lol. I didn't even see what you wrote until after I posted. I like the severity of it also, and I think the quality of the fabrics and construction, as you noted, is what makes it work. There are lots of things from Jil Sander that would be nice to have--it's a shame the prices make it out of the question.

[Johnny]

Re: Jil Sander Womenswear FW07/08 - Milan

I find this extremely uninspiring now. It's been the same right from the start of Simons' stewardship here. It really has not evolved in any significant way. Fair enough in itself, but this is an international fashion label, which does 6-monthly runway shows. So, erm, why bother with that if you just put out the same stuff again? Oh, and enough already with the Yves Klein blue.

[Faust]

Re: Jil Sander Womenswear FW07/08 - Milan



[quote user="Johnny"]I find this extremely uninspiring now. It's been the same right from the start of Simons' stewardship here. It really has not evolved in any significant way. Fair enough in itself, but this is an international fashion label, which does 6-monthly runway shows. So, erm, why bother with that if you just put out the same stuff again? Oh, and enough already with the Yves Klein blue.[/quote]

Johnny, but it's Jil - all her shows are the same (I agree with your point in general). Raf's shows at least have different colors sometimes :-)

[Casius]

Re: Jil Sander Womenswear FW07/08 - Milan

I would agree the runway shows all look the same but I think this is more for the Jil customer. The one thing that I would appreciate if I 'were' a Jil Sander customer is that season to season I could walk into a Jil Sander boutique and find something I liked.

I have to say though; Some of those dresses are down right sexy and I never thought I would say that about anything Jil Sander.

[matthewhk]

Re: Jil Sander Womenswear FW07/08 - Milan

Wow - i really like this! I feel Raf is coming into his own at JS with this collection...clean and pure but sexy. Very fresh.

[nqth]

Re: Jil Sander Womenswear FW07/08 - Milan



I must agree with Johnny. It is so uninspiring.

I see a lot of old JS collections and she did try to change things,her clothes was full of different shapes and shades of subtle colours. Joyfull.

I thinkRaf is really playing it safe at the moment. Strictly commercial collection, as Softgrey said in tFS and Laika here. I think he might want to save the change for later, which is a good move. But this is so deep in the fabric and cut aproach it is boring.

[kucejoe]

Re: Jil Sander Womenswear FW07/08 - Milan



I want to like this because I like the idea behind it (simple, pure, restrained elegance), but I think the execution makes it look like overpriced office wear. I dislike the cut of the coats (which I always thought was a Jil strongpoint), at least on the runway.

However, I must say that the two metallic dresses (the copper and the silver) are absolutely beautiful. They singlehandedly saved this collection for me.

[Servo2000]

Re: Jil Sander Womenswear FW07/08 - Milan

There's an almost creepy air about some of these clothes, I'm not sure what it is, that combined with the barely there sexuality of some of the pieces is kind of interesting. I could very well be the only one picking up on this, so it's probably just me.

[Faust]

Re: Jil Sander Womenswear FW07/08 - Milan



[quote user="Servo2000"]There's an almost creepy air about some of these clothes, I'm not sure what it is, that combined with the barely there sexuality of some of the pieces is kind of interesting. I could very well be the only one picking up on this, so it's probably just me.[/quote]

No, I totally agree - that's why I said that their clinical minimalism freaks me out a little. Emotionless, like a serial killer.

[Faust]

Re: Jil Sander Womenswear FW07/08 - Milan

[quote user="nqth"]

I must agree with Johnny. It is so uninspiring.

I see a lot of old JS collections and she did try to change things,her clothes was full of different shapes and shades of subtle colours. Joyfull.

I thinkRaf is really playing it safe at the moment. Strictly commercial collection, as Softgrey said in tFS and Laika here. I think he might want to save the change for later, which is a good move. But this is so deep in the fabric and cut aproach it is boring.

[/quote]

I don't see how old Jil is more inspiring than this, sorry - can you elaborate on that? I remember same stuff on her catwalks year in, year out. And that's the stuff on the catwalk - the stuff in stores was MUCH worse. It was all pant suits in beige colors for 50 year old corporate ladies. I'd take this collection over that stuff any time.

[Faust]

Re: Jil Sander Womenswear FW07/08 - Milan



Ms. Horyn weighs on her new favorite.

MILAN, Feb. 20 ? On Tuesday a little-known Belgian designer named Raf Simons had the full attention of the fashion world.

Mr. Simons?s collection for Jil Sander, his third since becoming
creative director 18 months ago, was perfect. It will be the collection
that people will discuss ? its sparkling colors, its technical
surprises ? from here until the end of the fall 2007 season, in Paris,
next weekend. And it will make everything else, I bet, seem a little
contrived, a little clunky, a little silly.

Not that everyone will want a blade-thin cape in purple wool over
slim black pants or a plain wool dress in deep royal blue with a subtle
pleat arcing down the front. If you prefer a broad-collared jacket and
a velvet bubble skirt, then Giorgio Armani
is your man this season. If you see yourself as a conceptual canvas or
chair, Miuccia Prada?s dimpled wool coats and shaggy skirts are for
you. And for women who never tire of looking like Lancelot, there are
Burberry?s tough leather coats and metal-studded sweaters.

But it?s very possible that, sometime soon, Mr. Simons will change
your eye. He has already convinced people in the fashion world, who
perhaps didn?t know his work as a men?s designer, that he can do
something substantial at Jil Sander and, in the long run, for fashion.
The company, which endured five years of limbo after its founder sold
the business to Prada, is now in the hands of a private investment
company.

Or, more meaningfully, it is in the hands of Mr. Simons, who is 39.
He has assembled around him a first-rate team that shares his values
and ideas about contemporary design. Although Sander is a minimalist
label, he has made it perform at a higher technical level than
generally assumed possible, and in this way his work is comparable to
the energy and farsightedness of Helmut Lang.

At the same time, you feel, especially with this collection, that
Mr. Simons has made the most of the experienced tailors and
pattern-makers at Jil Sander, charging them with new ideas. You can see
this in the precise cut of the capes, which have the control of a
jacket, and in the slight feminine curve of dresses and the unexpected
use of darts to give definition to wool coats.

?I?ve been thinking a lot about how women can get the shape they?re
probably interested in without ornamenting it,? Mr. Simons said
afterward.

One thing that strikes you about the collection is how he takes old
or odd ideas and makes them new without the belaboring habits of other
designers. A mundane shift becomes a sensuous evening dress by the
simple addition of two large squares of silk crepe at the shoulders.
Sun-ray pleats give both air and architecture to a silver metallic
dress with a banded bodice.

There was conviction as well in the shoes: pointy black pumps on a
wedgelike wooden platform. Doubtlessly Mr. Simons has not given much
thought to whether he is a fashion leader, but that is what he is.

[ddohnggo]

Re: Jil Sander Womenswear FW07/08 - Milan

this collection is quite nice, regardless of its minimalism. i find it quite interesting that an outfit so minimal can look so futuristic. it might be how the models are styled, with the slicked back hair, sparse make-up, etc..., but the outfits as a whole make the wearer look almost robotic in a way. i think raf did a great job.

[dontbecruel]

Re: Jil Sander Womenswear FW07/08 - Milan

To me Jil Sander was always a really sexy label. Jil's clothes gave women that air of disdain that a man has always been able to project with his corporate armour. The ad campaigns tend to have a kind of fuck-you luxurious haugtiness that I think is very sexy too. As far as the current collection goes, I think Cathy Horyn is right: Raf has re-energised the essence of the label, especially with the dresses. From my point of view this is by far the best of the three shows he has put together for AW07.

[nqth]

Re: Jil Sander Womenswear FW07/08 - Milan



Faust, I mean the soft thickness of the felted wool (the "cocoon" colection), the paper crisp coats and white shirts, the lightness of slightly drapped dresses. I don't know, maybe bc RS uses mostly dark colours so it doesn't show here in the pictures.

I can't help thinking he is doing here what he did with his earlier men collections - skinny girls instead of skinny boys. But those are his. This is not. There were always some emotions in JS presentation. This is cold as steel. JS was like a journey to perfection. RS is beyond:-) so it is just big black blank. The JSwomen are older and will look either boring or try too hard in those stuffs.

[xcoldricex]

Re: Jil Sander Womenswear FW07/08 - Milan

definitely feeling the "clincal-ness", but it might just be when it's on the runway. love the blue too :) ... can't wait to see the mcqueen pieces using a similiar blue...