Why does the general consensus seem to be that this is somehow a weaker collection than aw09?
There are several things about this I prefer to the previous three collections. There is a noticeable difference in how some of the more tired elements of the julius aesthetic have been spread across multiple pieces.
For instance, there is a variety of headgear that seems to take the place of hoods, gloves that appear more functional than in the past, more relaxed fitting trousers without an excess of cargo pockets, etc.
Yet it still looks like more of the same, which is why I think this is superior to the previous paris showings. There are a lot of throwbacks to previous collections, but individual pieces appear much more wearable and easier to introduce into multiple outfits without being so immediate and attention getting. Something I associate more with Horikawa's pre-paris collections, and something I think he has been touching on these last few seasons without fully committing to.
There are several things about this I prefer to the previous three collections. There is a noticeable difference in how some of the more tired elements of the julius aesthetic have been spread across multiple pieces.
For instance, there is a variety of headgear that seems to take the place of hoods, gloves that appear more functional than in the past, more relaxed fitting trousers without an excess of cargo pockets, etc.
Yet it still looks like more of the same, which is why I think this is superior to the previous paris showings. There are a lot of throwbacks to previous collections, but individual pieces appear much more wearable and easier to introduce into multiple outfits without being so immediate and attention getting. Something I associate more with Horikawa's pre-paris collections, and something I think he has been touching on these last few seasons without fully committing to.
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