Rick Owens Mens FW11 Paris

[mrbeuys]

Must say, looking back over it, this is something you can bury me in

[Faust]

Went to the showroom today. Lots of leather pants for you.

[BECOMING-INTENSE]

Cylinders, squares, angularity, geometry,
puffy "airbag" collars, metal trimming(the
white is not much better), elaborate fur
lapels etc etc.

No no no ...

[philip nod]

Went to the showroom today. Lots of leather pants for you.

[kunk75]

hey faust, any returning favorites or reissues that you recall, bauhaus leather in particular...

[BSR]

I have mixed feelings about this. I admire his play with proportions, the many stages silhouettes that become more fluid than ever, and the way he introduces female collections shapes into the men's. But honestly, I think i liked Rick more in his pre men's show period, when the men's wardrobe was made of basics mostly, the drkshdw jeans, the tees, the leather jackets and the draped cardigan and the first sneaks. It was about putting street style rebellion at the level of a gothic romance but still there was a lot of straightforwardness in it, he seemed to even rethink functionality which is often considered as a key in men's clothing, and i could see some intimacy in the way you could connect to the clothes.

Now i feel like everything is about the show, it's true that his shows are awesome, but the clothes, to be intimately connected to them i imagine you have to want your life to be a neverending show. To me the men's line, since FW09, has become extroverted, spectacular, to a point that i can't help thinking that Rick's men used to be about day to day clothing and that it is now fashion game. I know people will love Rick more as he does more 'fashion' in this sense, i don't.

To go back to the show, I loved Crust because the spectacular character was softened by the all black, but after this symphony of dark he pushed the showy one step further with FW10 (colors + materials), and here he seems to be back to the darkness of FW09 at least in the first part of the show, but the shapes are more baroque than ever, and the geometrical inspiration of the second part leaves me high and dry (plus several details that look WTF to me, the metallic stuff etc). Well, all in all, i admire the most brillant fahsion designer for men these days, but i regret the times when the show was not the alpha and omega.

[im_parfait]

Models themselves are one the most interesting elements of RO shows

[jogu]

i think he still does that , just with the s/s stuff . ss10 and upcoming 11 ; all very basic . the last few winters is where i see him playing with ideas alot more and making full use of luxe textiles . i like this quality for now , having easy to wear relatively basic clothes for summer and then more complex pieces to mess around with for winter .

when i think back at when i bought my 1st pair a rick sneaks , back in 06 , and compare that feelin with nowadays its like that street meets high fashion vibe has become a little stale for me . im glad i havent seen those fuckin hitops on runway anymore ( even tho new variations still get made with every season ) . after a while i need somethin more . more complex , more intriguing , maybe even a little more luxury meets dirty and thats exactly what hes done .

for the people who prefer the street vibe , the past few winter collections mite be a lil disappointing but for me i love the pace of how hes progressing or evolving . this collection is the epitome of what i love and what i want to wear . i dont think hes alienating his clients either .

and i think its still very possible to maintain that kinda denim and tee and sneaks look with this show . i can easily imagine buyin one of the many jackets from here and wearin it with a fit like that . if anything , mixing ro fw11 with older stuff just kinda gives that denim/tee/sneaks look a newer perspective to play around with . its like each new season adds somethin new to the rick closet but never makes anythin from the past obsolete in terms of mix n match

[mrbeuys]

...the clothes, to be intimately connected to them i imagine you have to want your life to be a neverending show.

Precisely that's what I love about this. The idea that it's one thing to create these things but that it's really hardcore to wear them. And it's not about wearing costume, I feel happy and myself in the most extreme of his stuff. But it accentuates and exaggerates your character. If you want to call that living in a show I am fine with it.

[neonrider]

fantastic collection. moving forward in a subversive but refined, nuanced, complex direction. expanding the repertoire of references. feels less street, but still very harsh. my fav from rick in a while, much less generic than i'd expected.

[BSR]

Precisely that's what I love about this. The idea that it's one thing to create these things but that it's really hardcore to wear them. And it's not about wearing costume, I feel happy and myself in the most extreme of his stuff. But it accentuates and exaggerates your character. If you want to call that living in a show I am fine with it.

I'm not surprised you say that, being the RO hardcore fan you are . And maybe it boils down to that sort of consideration (to me living in a RO show would be so tiring, i don't have that sort of energy). But in my mind it is not only about the wearability, but more a question of aesthetics. RO men's garments look gaudy to me now, i tend to prefer the original ruggedness of mens pieces when the sophistication of shapes was for womens collection.

@jogu: not sure to agree, even the drkshdw line which i prefer to the main line has become complicated with asymmetric cuts, leather panels and gimmicky details. SS11 displayed also long coats with short sleeves, unnecessary draped tees, not really the kind of things i would call basics, but to be fair, the shorts were ok.

[kunk75]

for sure, there are some looks I expect never to see aside from the runway but that's ok, he's embracing the idea of a big show in the first place. But the idea of your life being the show itself with a soundtrack to match is an intriguing one. I find that I actually go all out in assembling the uniform for client presentations and such. Of course, by that same token, the days where I am walking the dog and picking up the kids in layer upon layer of RO are probably the episodes you will not want to DVR.

[Shucks]

Of course, by that same token, the days where I am walking the dog and picking up the kids in layer upon layer of RO are probably the episodes you will not want to DVR.

but actually, that's when it's really hard core, no?

[kunk75]

true enough. soccer last week.

wife: "um, are you wearing a fucking skirt?"
me: "no, skirted pants."
wife: "......."

[Shucks]

tell ur wife it's not the first time the worlds of soccer and men's skirts meet...