Gareth Pugh FW11 - Paris

[Inxight]

My previous criticism aside, I am interested in where his vision goes from here in future seasons. I would like him to find a way to integrate this level of wearability with his earlier theatrics so as to push this further and be a bit more challenging. Being wearable and being groundbreaking aren't mutually exclusive, and I feel Pugh has the talent to accomplish this if he dares try.

[philip nod]

I sometimes feel that Pugh takes kitsch and fetish and camp and elevates it.

So did flash gordon which is an influence here, and perhaps the comic book you are thinking of Faust

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNIVpMXHqlk&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Cardin is too refined too sixties too geometric too pure form and simplicity a la

ellsworth Kelly to be referenced here
this is scifi camp with weird fishes

[evilsean]

i was a fan of the men's AW09 collection, but this i'm not particularly fond of. jackets are well cut, the patterns in the second bit are nice, but from blue on it loses me. not sure what he was invoking, and i'm not sure he was either.

[Matay]

like you're moving forward on a thunder cloud.

this is my favourite sentence i have ever read.

[interest1]

Cardin is too refined too sixties too geometric too pure form and simplicity a la ellsworth Kelly to be referenced here. this is scifi camp with weird fishes

Thank you. Glad someone called out the erroneous comparisons to Pierre Cardin. Cardin's work was actually quite curvilinear: lots of rounded shapes – to soften whatever straight lines he did use. That shows a mindfulness toward balance– not asymmetry. Not to mention Cardin's predilection for bright color.

None of these things are hallmarks of Gareth Pugh's work. By contrast, Pugh's lines are typically razor-straight & often asymmetrical. And aside from black, white, and any metallic shiny enough to check your teeth in, he doesn't exactly exploit the rainbow. Yeah, he used blue. Not surprising at all that he's trying some color. Every designer eventually goes there. That's why we're often rewarded with a collection twice as dark the next season (insert sigh of relief here). And despite any flowy offerings we may see, it'll never become a mainstay. People don't buy Gareth Pugh for fluid pants or colorful dresses.

They want bold / head-turning / "forgive me father for I have sinned" pieces. And fleeting whims notwithstanding, that's exactly what he delivers.

[philip nod]

[marc1975]

While browsing the f/w collections, I stumbled upon Gareth's designs. Honestly, I am in awe. It's a collection that's futuristic, absolutely unwearable (at least in my town), yet I absolutely adore the different pieces. I must admit that I fell in love with a piece that's a women's piece, nonetheless I like the form / design very much. As I won't be able to get something in this design that fits a guy in my size (IT 50), I am currently considering sewing this by myself.

So... the million dollar question:
Can anybody tell me what material Gareth used for the panels of this top?

• It doesn't seem to be leather, as the texture is too smooth.
• It seems to be a material that can be cut and doesn't require any serging to keep the edges from fraying.
• It seems to be too thin for neoprene, which I only found in thicknesses starting at around 1,5 mm.

Any ideas?

Cheers,
Marc

[Heirloom]

well it does look like leather to me, although he might've used some synthetic vinyl or such, but wouldn't the better thing to do is to use what you can find and make it your own?

[thejarc]

I saw a piece similar to this from current season at Dover Street Market. It was definitely leather and this one looks like leather too.

[marc1975]

wouldn't the better thing to do is to use what you can find and make it your own?

True, but - apart from the geometric forms - it's also the finish of the material that makes this piece look quite futuristic. That's why I try to find out what type of material it is first, before searching shops for that particular type of material. You almost always end up with a different material anyway...

I saw a piece similar to this from current season at Dover Street Market. It was definitely leather and this one looks like leather too.

Cool... I am going to be visiting London this weekend, and I had Dover Street market already on my list :-)

I just wondered as the material has a very matt finish and doesn't have the typical grain that a leather normally has... will definitely take a look at the pieces in London.

Cheers,
Marc

[Patroklus]

I'm positive that it's neoprene. You can find that stuff at least as thin as .5mm: http://www.sy95.com.tw/products/super-thin-material.htm

[marc1975]

I've mailed Gareth Pugh and even got an answer: The basic material of the top is neoprene, while the panels are made of matt lamb leather.

I wonder whether this is a typical "runway" item: I don't think that wearing a Neoprene shirt/jacket is very comfortable for extended times, as neoprene is impermeable, so one get's sweaty very fast. Maybe one should really see these items more as an art form than actual clothing...

[gohn]

It is more wearable than previous collection except the last "golden series". Anyway its a good trend

The menswear is still inspired from female. Lets waiting for the next season.....

[semper]

(...)
I wonder whether this is a typical "runway" item: I don't think that wearing a Neoprene shirt/jacket is very comfortable for extended times, as neoprene is impermeable, so one get's sweaty very fast. Maybe one should really see these items more as an art form than actual clothing...

Ever wore a raincoat?
Why is clothing that isn't meant to be worn all day long not actual clothing? A tuxedo or tails were never meant to be worn all day.

[clay]

Like some here I'm not his biggest fan, but I liked much ( not all ) of what i've seen here. There is growth, evolution and and bit of refinement. I say he's heading in the right direction to make a little money one day ( if we like or not ).