WTF

[stagename]

It's a new jacket bought in early June at almost full retail. Might have problem exchanging/returning as it's been two months already since the buy. And yes smash that's my guess as well, but after a few emails exchanged with the good people at Rick I had decided to keep it as they re-assured me this wouldn't happen...

Thanks lowrey that's a fine suggestion, and yes, it's the underarm in the back. I did not even pull hard, I just made a hand wave to a friend who was leaving my place. I didn't even have the chance to test the jacket outside ;)

Strip of fabric sounds great. I'll check with my tailor.

[curiouscharles]

It's a new jacket bought in early June at almost full retail. Might have problem exchanging/returning as it's been two months already since the buy. And yes smash that's my guess as well, but after a few emails exchanged with the good people at Rick I had decided to keep it as they re-assured me this wouldn't happen...

Thanks lowrey that's a fine suggestion, and yes, it's the underarm in the back. I did not even pull hard, I just made a hand wave to a friend who was leaving my place. I didn't even have the chance to test the jacket outside ;)

Strip of fabric sounds great. I'll check with my tailor.

see, there's your mistake[s].

no friends, and certainly no friendly gestures when buying / wearing Ricky Owens.

[Faust]

damn straight, curiouscharles!

[theconsumer]

I also think it's the stress. One needs strong thread there, which also necessiates strong fabric/leather because strong thread would tear it otherwise. With lamb, stitching probably isn't strong enough.

I wonder if this is one of those cuts of Rick's where theres a lot of stress on that particular seam. I returned a Mollino jacket once because I could see right away that even though the jacket wasn't too tight, there was a lot of tension behind the shoulders/armpits where the seams meet. this looks to be that exact same place..?

[nicelynice]

Friend had an AW13 Mollino bust in the same spot after trying it on for the first time. RO fixed it for free, worth getting in touch, customer service has always been excellent

[mizzar]

it's RO pattern fault
had alltogether 3 rick jacket with the same back-underarm construction.
A lot of stress on this point due how the back-underarm cut.

[unwashed]

Wonder if Rick himself busted some seems as he is the muscular type as well.

Leather- and threadtypes cannot justify this over the prices paid for his goods.

[magic]

I have seem a blazer with this issue so probably not only materials wise problem..

[xeraphim]

Wonder if Rick himself busted some seems as he is the muscular type as well.

he's rarely ever seen wearing a leather jacket though

[Fuuma]

it's RO pattern fault
had alltogether 3 rick jacket with the same back-underarm construction.
A lot of stress on this point due how the back-underarm cut.

Indeed, saw the same problem on several jackets, it is especially common when the leather is too thick/stiff to fold properly but can happen with softer ones due to stress.

[lowrey]

Wonder if Rick himself busted some seems as he is the muscular type as well.

I was actually thinking about this.. Many designers cut clothes based on their own body shape, but it could be a problem with pattern grading too.. And its probably a thin line between the cut fitting like a glove or pulling.

that photo by nicelynice actually illustrates the problem quite well, even just laid down like that there is a pull on that area when the arm is raised.

[unwashed]

And yet we still buy his stuff knowing all this I know, I'm a part of it.

Good discussion point for the Quality vs Aesthetics thread

[Shucks]

it's the construction - the seam is L-shaped, putting a ridiculous amount of stress on the fabric/thread in the corner of the L. it's the dumbest construction rick's ever done afaik - the same 'solution' is used also on the inside of the legs of various pants and shorts, and other places. i think it is a way to keep down the number of pieces and/or seams used to join the sleeves to the torso, for lower cost and/or cleaner esthetics.

i've busted pods, pants and blazers cause of this bullshit. thankfully no leather yet.

just a word of caution - if you get something like this fixed using strong thread, you risk having the fabric/leather rip next time instead. it's usually better to have the thread tear (again), than the fabric...

[upsilonkng]

is it on all his leathers? because i've never had a problem but mollino's are always illfitting on me, just trying them on makes me uncomfortable.

[lowrey]

i think it is a way to keep down the number of pieces and/or seams used to join the sleeves to the torso, for lower cost and/or cleaner esthetics.

on jackets with this pattern, do I remember right that the side of the body is a continuous piece all the way to the sleeve..? If so, then I would imagine its done for aesthetics, it would probably be cheaper to make a regular sewn on sleeve which would eliminate the problem.