S/S 07 on Luisaviaroma

[minomni]

Re: S/S 07 on Luisaviaroma

yes, i think it is safe to say that hedi has been slacking - it doesn't
require any kind of in-depth analysis to see that his collections have
declined with regards to pure design. the slippage of quality is also
self-evident in the garments and he seems to be simply hitting the
highlights of past glories nowadays. that said, this particular
collection looks tolerable.. i like the details of the gabardine safari jacket and will probably pick up that pleat/button shirt. the seemingly endless repetitions of the polos/tees basic shirts/suitings are to be expected and personally, categorically ignored. for what it's worth, i kind of like the silver leather jacket [:P]

[Faust]

Re: S/S 07 on Luisaviaroma



[quote user="mike"]I'm not trying to start any fights, but could you please explain to me what appeals to you about the SS07 Dior Homme collection? You said it has a futuristic vibe to it but I believe it was actually inspired bya particular London scene. Also, I find it very hard to believe someone could wear a silver leather jacket everyday and not look like a complete fashion victim unless they were on stage or had some serious swagger. Furthermore, I think it is safe to say Hedi probablyhas not designed much, if anything at all in the past few collections; hence all the "recycling" of pieces. Again, I am just interested to hear other peoples opinions on this...[/quote]

It's totally fine, mike. I agree with your view - I wouldn't touch DH with a ten-foot pole these days (except the suits), but I do want to give casem room to breathe. He is a late comer to DH, and I think that the point of the SS07 was to reference past DH collections to let people like casem buy some things. It's a smart commerical move.

I am not sure how it reference the London scene, I'd be curious to hear that.

Casem, I must say that in my opinion the collection is not as referrential, but rather self-referential. And, given the fact that Hedi has referenced other designers in the past (most notabely Helmut Land and Raf Simons), it becomes doubly referrential. I can't say that it's a major sin (especially given the fact that Helmut is gone), just pointing out some things here.

Raf, btw, has done the same thing for SS07. There has been plenty of new Raf fans (remember he's been designing for more than 10 years), and SS07 is like the best of.

There, Faust being politically correct! Doesn't happen often [:P]

[mike]

Re: S/S 07 on Luisaviaroma



[quote user="Faust"]

I am not sure how it reference the London scene, I'd be curious to hear that.

[/quote]

Here is a picture from an article Hedi did fora magazine; note that this kid is obviously not in Dior Homme clothing so I would guess it is safe to say he is not a model, but inspiration rather:

I have seen several other pictures of kids looking very similar to the runway styling, as well. In addition, I see see this collection of a best of 2005 and after. I can not see any of the Berlin style which was quite apparent in the early seasons.

[Faust]

Re: S/S 07 on Luisaviaroma

I thought you's point to the haircuts. I remember someone saying that they ripped off the haircuts from some indie band (wasn't sure a London one or not).

[casem]

Re: S/S 07 on Luisaviaroma

That's the actual model from the show, the one who sported the silver jacket no less [;-)} I wonder if he had that hair cut before the show. I know some people, like Geo from Misshapes have been sporting that hair, but I still don't see this collection copying a subculture.

Faust and others are right in that it does look a bit like a greatest hits. I would argue it goes further back than 2005 though, the sashes across the chest hint to solitaire, the one very detailed leather shirt looks a whole lot like luster and all the shiny leather is reminiscent of luster, the belted blazer and kimono thing could have come from Red, the silver jacket and shirt are similar to those seen in strip, as is the way he cut up some of the tanks. You could argue that the remakes aren't as good, but still, I think they were taken from all season no just since "the decline".

I don't want to come off as a diehard Dior fan, I'm not. There's plenty I don't like and I'm interested in many other designers. But I disagree with those who write off every collection since Luster, Strip, or VOTC (depending on your preference).

Faust, thanks for being diplomatic, I know you're not a fan of the stuff hehe. And you're right, as I have said in other posts, I didn't buy any Dior until around F/W 05. I was aware of it well before that and very interested in it from "follow me" onward, but at the time I couldn't imagine spending designer prices. So a greatest hits collection does not bother as it might someone who already has those "hits" from previous collections.

[mike]

Re: S/S 07 on Luisaviaroma



Yes, the haircuts are very similar to those of The Horrors, as well as a few others. Also, narrow trousers with long, slim tops is nothing new either; this look can be seen worn by quite a few bands from London. Oddly enough...I much more prefer the SS06 look compared to this season although that was another highly ridiculed season.

[casem]

Re: S/S 07 on Luisaviaroma

Back to LVR, I know the Ann Demeulemeester buy is boring but do you guys like any of it? I like the waist coat with striped lining and those delicate hoodies look nice, but a bit plain. I wanted the hang print tee, but the 2 on LVR look really bad. What do you guys think of the necklaces? I like them in theory and on the runway, but I'm not sure I would feel great about wearing pearls.

(BTW I enjoy the civil discussion mike)

[Servo2000]

Re: S/S 07 on Luisaviaroma

This is just a side note: I absolutely love this forum. This is perhaps one of nearly zero times that I have seen two people disagree on the internet and not have the thread descend into petty, pointless, diatribe. And the thing is, everyone gets more out of it too. Personally, I can understand both of your views, so it sort of expands my own understanding of the argument.

Well done.

[mike]

Re: S/S 07 on Luisaviaroma

[quote user="casem83"]

Faust and others are right in that it does look a bit like a greatest hits. I would argue it goes further back than 2005 though, the sashes across the chest hint to solitaire, the one very detailed leather shirt looks a whole lot like luster and all the shiny leather is reminiscent of luster, the belted blazer and kimono thing could have come from Red, the silver jacket and shirt are similar to those seen in strip, as is the way he cut up some of the tanks. You could argue that the remakes aren't as good, but still, I think they were taken from all season no just since "the decline".

[/quote]

I can see where you are coming from, but I feel that the similarities are more apparent to the more recent collections. You mentioned the silver jackets;in the SS06 collection there was a silver baseball style jacket (hell there were even silver jeans). The way the shirts are cut with a very deep neck, is also similar to SS06, but in the current collection theyare much more slim. The white shoes in the current collection are very similar to the white repetto styled shoes from SS06. Even down to how the models wear the pants, itlooks very similar to SS06; in early collections everything was very slouched yet starting in SS06 they have been pulled up and this seems to have followed over to SS07. I will agree that some of the key pieces are reminiscent of the early collections, but there is a strong influence from recent collections. I am sure there are also many other similarities but that's all I can remember off the top of my head...

[minomni]

Re: S/S 07 on Luisaviaroma



i'm considering the black pearl necklace, i think i can make it work and i suppose i can accept owning one skull symboled item [:^)]

the waistcoat and hoodies both have nice texture.. but not enough edge for me. also, the insert on the back of the waistcoat looks quite long.

i was hoping lvr would pick up the asymmetrical white bomber
jacket, will someone please let me know if they see it pop up in
nyc in the coming weeks? it's the first item featured in the aloharag pdf.

[Faust]

Re: S/S 07 on Luisaviaroma

[quote user="casem83"]Back to LVR, I know the Ann Demeulemeester buy is boring but do you guys like any of it? I like the waist coat with striped lining and those delicate hoodies look nice, but a bit plain. I wanted the hang print tee, but the 2 on LVR look really bad. What do you guys think of the necklaces? I like them in theory and on the runway, but I'm not sure I would feel great about wearing pearls.

(BTW I enjoy the civil discussion mike)

[/quote]

I don't like any of it :-( I find the pearl necklaces too feminine for my taste. I know what Ann was trying to do, soften the skulss with the pearls, bt the offset is too soft. I am sure Atelier, IF, and even Barneys will have a much better buy. It's becoming for me harder to like Ann's stuff - she's definitely gone softer, and while it works wonderfully for the womenswear, I find myself being turned off by the menswear. I haven't bought an Ann's piece (the key pendant notwithstanding) since she started doing a standalone menswear show. It's partly due to the cut being slimmer in her outerwear, but mostly to her shift in design. I am eyeing two pieces for my bday, we'll see.

[mike]

Re: S/S 07 on Luisaviaroma

Regarding what LVR has selection wise, I would never buy virtually any of it! The onlyitems I could see myself purchasing is maybe a Dior Homme piece or one of those Rick Owens jackets. I mean come on...most of the stuff they are selling are basics!

[onemancult]

Re: S/S 07 on Luisaviaroma

The Ann D. pearl necklaces, geez, they just look like the multi-sized pearl/bead with satintie closurenecklaces that I think I've finally succeeded in convincing my girlfriend are ugly.

[CHRIS]

Re: S/S 07 on Luisaviaroma



[quote user="minomni"]i was hoping lvr would pick up the asymmetrical white bomber jacket, will someone please let me know if they see it pop up in nyc in the coming weeks?[/quote]

+

[Faust]

Re: S/S 07 on Luisaviaroma

[quote user="CHRIS"]

[quote user="minomni"]i was hoping lvr would pick up the asymmetrical white bomber jacket, will someone please let me know if they see it pop up in nyc in the coming weeks?[/quote]

+

[/quote]

I'll keep an eye out for both of you when I do my instore NYC spring preview in a month or so.