Your recent purchases

[Castor]

Lightening up for Spring. Julius SS '13 silk/wool georgette jacket. Thanks SuTo Corp for a flawless transanction.

[curiouscharles]

pseudonym fantastic buys - those carpes are extremely rare, and silicone sealed for full 'weather protection'.

you'll see when you receive them, they also have a unique sole, which is also more 'weather proof' than any traditional model of that boot [this collector has forced some traditional vibrams on top of them, which looks great - but i'm sure you'll be pleasantly surprised by the details in person]

[cjbreed]

"New blazer" in hopscotch.
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sorry for another sizing question. but, besides the mac, do you guys find that you can wear a size down in the new blazer and norfolk from the size you wear in the classic, long and unlined blazers?

obviously there is variation due to fabric/season, etc. but i think the cut in the shoulders is different. less snug in the new and norfolk, so there is no need to size up to accommodate broad shoulders. curious what you guys have learned

[MikeN]

I still think it's season-to-season, fabric-to-fabric. My "new blazer" "long blazer" "long mac" "norfolk jacket" are all size S. I have a gray "pocket blazer" in M, "unlined blazer" from this season in M, an "unlined blazer" in L, and a "pocket blazer" in L. And I have cardigans in XL!

[pseudonym]

^same experience. slightly less examples.

But yeah, sizes ranging from S - L. Ironically one of my L (double-breasted tweed) fits tighter than my only S (cotton Mac).

Not that it's a 'rule of thumb', but generally speaking I find the new norfolk to fit more tts than most of the older season classic and long blazers that I have owned/tried. I don't own any norfolk [yet] but the M I tried fit perfectly, whereas normally the blazers in size M are too tight in the shoulders/chest. There are some fabrics/seasons that M is OK, but these are in the minority, in my experience.

[endorphinz]

re last few posts

i ask the following without being a hater or an asshole:

isn't this problem an indication of poor quality control or is this a deliberate attempt to make wearers more "involved" in the purchasing experience?

either way, I don't get it.

[pseudonym]

re last few posts

i ask the following without being a hater or an asshole:

isn't this problem an indication of poor quality control or is this a deliberate attempt to make wearers more "involved" in the purchasing experience?

either way, I don't get it.

I don't know that I think about it all that much.

In store: I try it on (and don't care what size the label says) if I like it, I buy it if it fits.
Online: I look at the measurements (and don't care what size the label says) and buy it if I think it'll fit.

[casem]

LOL, best marketing spin ever.

re last few posts

i ask the following without being a hater or an asshole:

isn't this problem an indication of poor quality control or is this a deliberate attempt to make wearers more "involved" in the purchasing experience?

either way, I don't get it.

[endorphinz]

I don't know that I think about it all that much.

In store: I try it on (and don't care what size the label says) if I like it, I buy it if it fits.
Online: I look at the measurements (and don't care what size the label says) and buy it if I think it'll fit.

I get that but I still don't get it

oh well, "things I don't get is" a looooong list

[MikeN]

either way, I don't get it.

Well that's shocking.

The sizes really haven't changed in the last 2 years or so. And if it's one size off in either direction, I can still wear it. And if the sizing is REALLY off, luckily there is a voracious second-hand market.

[cjbreed]

the variation in sizing season to season and fabric to fabric is because each fabric responds to the washing process differently. there is wide variation in newer models vs older models because the cut and fit has changed completely

there is intentional variation in the different models of jackets he produces. ph makes a jacket for every body type. and within each model the wearer can size up or down on a particular jacket to his or her liking for a different look and they should still "fit". my question was for those that already know this, and that have slightly more experience than me, and was about these specific models. new + norfolk vs. classic + long + unlined. i already know the answer, but was asking for some honest uninfluenced real world feedback. the classic, long and unlined are cut to fit more snug or "shrunken" in the chest and shoulders. the new and norfolk are a little more traditional. the least eccentric fits. the mac we've been discussing is like a yohji fit.

and then of course this is all influenced further by the washing process. so it is very difficult to have a general consistent rule of thumb that always applies to his garments. hence the resistance to online sales and marketing. harnden just wants you to try it on.

i think...

[endorphinz]

of course different goods respond to manufacturing processes differently. that is a given and,as such, is supposed to be taken into account BEFORE manufacturing. dunno. in my ancient manufacturing experience, we had different paper (patterns) for different goods AND different models and all were graded separately. even our moderately priced shit had standards.


and yeah, I guess it is cool that there is that voracious 2nd hand market fueling itself on kool aid... just hope it's sugar free cuz added lbs would only lead to more size confusion.

[cjbreed]

i'm pretty sure the garments are washed after manufacturing. some shrink more than others. its predictable but not an exact science. like object dyed ccp etc. but for ph the sizing is relatively consistent in recent seasons with only minor variation.

btw you don't honestly think ph doesn't use patterns and grading do you? really?

also, and no offense, but it seems like you kind of shit on so much of the stuff featured here on sz that it makes me wonder why you bother. honestly.

[endorphinz]

I'm sure ph uses graded patterns...but apparently not very good ones ;)

I'm not shitting on anything.i was honestly trying to get educated but i do find it annoying when people say stuff like "it's really not that bad and I just deal with it"

hey,I got my answer... carry on

[Faust]

Got my first spring purchases - a coat and a pair of pants from Forme d'Expression. Such fantastic easy pieces - Forme is probably the most underrated brand on this forum. Pictures soon.