random fashion thoughts

[trentk]

It's kindof awesome that St Ignatius had his religious awakening while recovering from surgery conducted without anesthetics not for functional reasons, but to correct a lump of bone that protruded from his leg* and looked unsightly in the tights that were the day's fashion. I don't support being so vain as to undergo aesthetic surgery without anesthetic, or being religious... just find the tension between the two interesting.
I think that some sz designers have captured an aesthetic which could appeal to st ignatius in both the vain & violent** womanizing phase of his life and in the religious phase.

*which was injured in a battle and healed improperly
**violent towards men, not women

[beyondthemeans]

is the giant amount of paul harnden stuff in gigantic sizes part of the oversize appeal? or is it just really large dudes into the look..?

where did you find large sizes in PH? Last time I found some in Paris, the sizing was so bad I couldn't fit into an XL.

[mikko]

where did you find large sizes in PH? Last time I found some in Paris, the sizing was so bad I couldn't fit into an XL.

The pattern of the new Lancashire trouser model is ridiculously large...

[gregor]

beyondthemeans mostly secondhand, with the whole host of 36 bottoms, xxl shirting, etc. on marketplaces.

[lowrey]

beyondthemeans mostly secondhand, with the whole host of 36 bottoms, xxl shirting, etc. on marketplaces.

where are you looking??

I just had a look on Grailed and Ebay, and I literally could not find a single item (out of about 50 mens pieces) that would fit nor is tagged larger than an L/50?

[gregor]

https://www.grailed.com/listings/291027-elena-dawson-linen-pants-white

https://www.grailed.com/listings/240133-paul-harnden-long-mac-tweed

etc, mostly from the same seller or two but it all sells, so it means there's probably more than one buyer. a whole host may be a tad of an exaggeration but nevertheless it's obviously got a market.

cjbreed was selling one to fit a 52 as well, just wondering if it was because of the way they were cut or a desired look, or if all of paul's clientele is just massive

[lowrey]

First item isn't even PH and its tagged L, second one doesn't show tagged size but yea that one might actually fit big. Still, pretty much everything currently on the market fits 50 or smaller so not exactly a giant amount

[beyondthemeans]

beyondthemeans mostly secondhand, with the whole host of 36 bottoms, xxl shirting, etc. on marketplaces.

I remember seeing a German seller on Ebay having multiple items in XL/XXL, but the sizing was ridiculously small on everything (like medium/large).

I've been keeping an eye out on pretty much all marketplaces for more than a year now and haven't really found anything.

[aussy]

The BOF top ten fashion 'film' list they've been promoting nonstop on fb frustrates me. They have plenty of content so why spend time perpetuating this falsehood of marketing as something of cultural importance? They are (typically) just ads! Maybe I'm just naive to think any media outlet would take a stance like that and pass on the views/clicks a fluffy list article generates.

[sunny]

Get in line.

http://www.sz-mag.com/news/2016/04/o...r-avant-garde/

Thanks for sharing. Read it, very inspiring article.
Grailed is like a poison.

[cjbreed]

thought this was funny and relevant to a few issues discussed so often on sz

http://i.imgur.com/UM379gx.gifv

edit: oh look its a youtube video

[newp]

thought this was funny and relevant to a few issues discussed so often on sz

http://i.imgur.com/UM379gx.gifv

Hilarious and honestly great for an ad.

[DudleyGray]

Thanks for sharing. Read it, very inspiring article.
Grailed is like a poison.

I think the monetary value of used clothing isn't such a shame, so much as a large drop in forum activity. I could just be imagining things (happens often), but it really seems as though the growth of Grailed is directly correlated with a drop in activity of various forums. Were people not actually interested in all the topics that the fashion conversation involves, eg, culture, identity, class, values, ethos? Were they just engaged in a communities for virtual validation or because an established status provided them with the trust and respect of others so that they could sell their wares at an inflated cost? I guess everyone could have just burnt out around the same time as well; I think the growth from blogs to tumblr/lookbook to instagram along with an increasingly unending supply of labels and maybe a saturation point of readily available knowledge might be closer correlated to the drop in communities' activities.

thought this was funny and relevant to a few issues discussed so often on sz

http://i.imgur.com/UM379gx.gifv

I died.

[cjbreed]

I think the monetary value of used clothing isn't such a shame, so much as a large drop in forum activity. I could just be imagining things (happens often), but it really seems as though the growth of Grailed is directly correlated with a drop in activity of various forums. Were people not actually interested in all the topics that the fashion conversation involves, eg, culture, identity, class, values, ethos? Were they just engaged in a communities for virtual validation or because an established status provided them with the trust and respect of others so that they could sell their wares at an inflated cost? I guess everyone could have just burnt out around the same time as well; I think the growth from blogs to tumblr/lookbook to instagram along with an increasingly unending supply of labels and maybe a saturation point of readily available knowledge might be closer correlated to the drop in communities' activities.

i think the people that came for the classifieds only were never really active posters to begin with, but i think you definitely have a valid point there. lots of people came for the classifieds and stayed for the community. now they don't come for the classifieds anymore, and the community is now spread over all the other sources and platforms for info and images that were once only available here.

but one additional point is this: look at the last time the threads for some of our most revered designers were active. ccp, label under construction, m.a+, carpe diem. these used to be some of the primary drivers for this forum. and now...nothing. and thats due in part to the fact that two of them now do almost nothing and the other two are still doing the same thing they did 6 years ago, they just charge a lot more for it.

ann dem is retired, damir doma sucks, a1923 is absurdly priced and hardly a design innovator, paul harnden is still making the same jacket but charging more for it, and bbs is still somehow being mostly ignored around these parts, not sure why. price?

rick owens was another major force in the beginning, and he still is, but perhaps not what he once was. many of us got older and can't really wear much of his more interesting stuff anymore. and what i can wear, i am bored with. but he is still the reigning lord of sz, no doubt.

i don't know, i just think that a big reason forum activity is down on this fashion forum in particular is that the fashion itself isn't worth talking about as much anymore. not in the same way it once was. some of the older posters are moving on or losing interest and there's not as much for the new guys to get excited about. is there? who? what?

[Ahimsa]

I've been talking about similar points with friends recently.
There is definitely an over saturation of brands right now, but unfortunately a la London fashion week style, just piles of unadulterated junk. That, paired with the slow death of fashion shows, I can't really see why anyone would have much to discuss right now in the current climate, not to mention younger people getting excited about it like when McQueen, Mugler, Margiela, etc. could create such awe with their shows and creations.
We're in a fashion age of product design, and I'm not seeing any newcomers pushing the boundaries or creating anything interesting really. All the "it" brands (Vetements) are basically just riffs on nostalgia.

A lot of the old SZ brands are either now big, stagnant, dead, or dying.

Not to mention most of the journalists and publications are so biased and marketing driven at this point (BoF now included) that the environment is quite sterile and chock full of propaganda.

I'd say film is in a very similar situation. Almost no one (producers/investors) wants to take risks and just play it safe and by the book. A lot of designer's favorite designs get cut out of production by the merchandizing team before anyone even gets to see them.

Not to say this hasn't been going on already, but that it's much more prevalent now.