Carol Christian Poell

[theaddict]

Exactly. And then everyone wonders about where old members go. To where their brains don't hurt from the same stupid questions.

ahahaha, i just spilled water over my monitor...

[cjbreed]

Exactly. And then everyone wonders about where old members go. To where their brains don't hurt from the same stupid questions.

this is a mythological place. it does not exist. and if it does, we'll fuck it up soon enough...

[tgadd]

We are indeed.
But small questions belong in the "Small questions" thread.
Why should we help someone who doesn't even read the rules of the forum ?

One or two pointers in that direction to obviously new members could do something to combat the stagnancy this place seems continually to exhibit by, you know, fostering new members rather than discouraging them from posting entirely.

[philip nod]

I'm betting on lincecum over hallaway

[timberlakeld]

some ppl may conclude brands like BBS, VA, Julius, Ro..etc as "Darkness" Brand, so what category should we put XXX in? Why?

[BSR]

some ppl may conclude brands like BBS, VA, Julius, Ro..etc as "Darkness" Brand, so what category should we put XXX in? Why?

Light, i guess

[zamb]

some ppl may conclude brands like BBS, VA, Julius, Ro..etc as "Darkness" Brand, so what category should we put XXX in? Why?

I think that these kind of Classifications, while sometimes accurate, often oversimplifies and can misrepresent what these designers do.

there are areas where many of the designers work overlaps, but there are distinct differences that could put them in completely different categories.

take for example Julius and VA, there is an aggression to Julius that VA does not posses, VA is more tailored and way more 'poetic" in its essence than Julius. to just throw them all in a category called "darkness" is to disregard important aspects of each designers work

BBS I have always seen as being more youthful, more raw and "artisanal" than the others you mentioned.

Carol at heart is a Tailor, Albeit a "maniacal" one, and lest I get into trouble I am using the word in a complementary way here, by this I mean that there is this kind of attention to detail that conveys that kind of persona in his work, where there is a deliberate desire to refine his ideas, cuts and concepts to as close to perfecting his ideals as a designer can possibly get.

He is probably the best tailor that exist among the avant garde niche brands.............
The only thing that I see that could categories or tie them ll together in the "darkness" category (whatever that means) is that for the most part they are all minimalist, who are drawn to a darker color palette and aesthetic...........

edit:
Liker it or not, Rick Owens is a big mainstream brand right now. not that there is anything wrong with that. I dont see the reason if you create something successful, you should necessarily choose to keep it small, just for some kind of "inner circle cred"
the beauty of Rick becoming mainstream is that it proves that a brand came come into being and grow and become profitable without selling out to big conglomerates......
Clothes falling apart or not, I like the fact that he is still producing in the same factories that he started with, they just need to iron out a flew slight production issues and he should be fine...........

[Umami]

agree with zamb.

[Enaml]

Also agree with zamb completely. Calling something a 'darkness' brand is entirely reductionist at a basic level. That said, it's entirely natural, I think, to group labels/designers/brands together by similarities they share. It might be better, as Zamb already stated, to note that they share characteristics in common (minimal design, dark palette, etc), but not use these characteristics to put them into boxes. With this in mind, I would be interested in what others see as 'characteristics' of Poell's designs.

[snafu]

I certainly don't see minimal with any of the people mentioned above.

[Chant]

Damir said once that he doesn't belong to the "dark" designers, because he likes colours and to play with it, and so does CCP.

[zamb]

I certainly don't see minimal with any of the people mentioned above.

well if you explain what you understanding of minimal is, I can agree or disagree with you. I am not talking about Minimalism in the sense of Cavin Klein or Halston type minimal

but if you look at how many of these designers clothes are constructed, you cannot help but to call it minimal,

Take for example Poells Jackets, most have no breast pocket, they are single button closures, on both the sleeve and the Body, instead of a double vent there is only one. And I respect it because its not a sign of laziness, but a sign of restraint and an adherence to a philosophy, because whatever is left, is treated with the highest commitment to proper execution. the Single button vent on the sleeve becomes a functional surgeon cuff, with pick stitching and handmade buttonholes.
Even the Pockets on his suits are constructed without welt lips, but you see the workmanship because they are then pick stitched by hand, so at least for him, thats what I mean by Minimalism


Christian,

Darkness doesn't mean a lack of Colour. one can have a dark but colorful aesthetic, in the sense that colours can be muted or be used with a darker tone to them. alt least in my own work thats what I do,

Red becomes Plum, or maroon
Blue becomes something darker than navy, like midnight blue
Green becomes combat green, like the leather jacket and suit in the S/S 2011 collection.
So the use of colour doesn't mean the absence of darkness, after all, are there not many blacks with hints of other colours in them?

[Faust]

Light, i guess

[philip nod]

this is a mythological place. it does not exist. and if it does, we'll fuck it up soon enough...

http://www.meranch.com/imaginashan/fortune4.jpg

[cjbreed]

where to robokop unicorn