Vetements, formerly of Margiela

[KodakII]

After reading the conversation between Sarah Mower and Guram Gvasalia (https://i-d.vice.com/en_au/article/c...ion-revolution), I'm sort of confused as to what Vetements represents. Gvasalia made the following point:

How can the rest of us as consumers contribute to a healthier fashion industry?
Stop buying things you don't need. Start buying clothes you can cherish for years. Go away from fast fashion. Stop looking for bargains. Start looking for quality. Move towards the idea of slow fashion.

Vetements, in it's current state, is the antithesis of clothing that can be cherished. Most of what I am seeing from online retailers is the easily recognizable & trendy stuff. Will people be wearing it in 1-2 seasons? Will Vetements cease production of sweats, t-shirts and other logo'd items to focus on interesting pattern cutting and tailoring .

As Faust stated, fashion-hipsters are fickle. Will they still be around if/when the logos are gone?

[YohjiIsLife]

I agree that these are the pieces that make Vetements interesting. I don't care if they echo Margiela, actually, because Margiela has reserved this kind of stuff for the artisanal line, but they make it the center of their work. Well, were making it the center of their work. I hope that once the hype levels off, they stick to making stuff like that.

Yes, please! I can only hope there is an end to his DHL tees days, because there is something of much more substance trying to come out.

[Law]

http://www.vogue.com/13420347/vetememes-vetements-internet-parody/

[Faust]

http://www.vogue.com/13420347/veteme...ternet-parody/

I wouldn't be surprised if they saw the photo in one of the SZ mag articles. As you know, Julien Boudet is our frequent photography collaborator.

[Faust]

http://www.vogue.com/13420347/veteme...ternet-parody/

One more, with mention of SZ.

https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/vetememes-vetements-fashion-parody/

[beyondthemeans]

THIS:



http://www.vetememes.com/product/vetememes

[Faust]

/\ did you bother reading the posts above yours?

[Law]

The Gvasalia effect:

http://1granary.com/interviews/the-gvasalia-effect/

[Dropt]

One more, with mention of SZ.

https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/vetememes...ashion-parody/

Sounds just like another kid riding the wave pretending to be in it for the "lolz". Yeah, ok. God this world depresses me sometimes.

[Faust]

The Gvasalia effect:

http://1granary.com/interviews/the-gvasalia-effect/

this actually was great! it should be called "things you'll never hear from fashion business people."

[jap808]

The Gvasalia effect:

http://1granary.com/interviews/the-gvasalia-effect/

Really interesting.

Have a laugh reading about italian shops in villages of 2.000

Altough I'm a little doubtful about this -->
"7 – THE REASON WHY VETEMENTS ISN’T CHEAP
“There are a few reasons. One is that we work with amazing factories. These factories are not cheap. Another thing is the fabric. For example, the hoodies Demna likes to use molton cotton that is very heavy. It is almost 480g compared to the usual 240g. The price of creating this heavy cotton is double the price of creating a regular one. For the normal ones you can go up to 1.5m, but for the oversized pieces it can go up to 3 or 4.5m of fabric. It all comes together with the shipping costs. It is nicer when people save up. They can buy this one piece that they cherish for a longer time, rather than spending money on clothes every week that they throw away afterwards. The whole idea is to limit the production, having less pieces and making sure that people who buy these pieces can cherish it for a longer time. It’s moving away from this idea of fashion fashion, to this idea of slow fashion.”

...imho "capitalizing on hype" is the main reason.

[aussy]

I agree, that point felt disingenuous. This push against fast fashion (as well as 'anti fashion') has been, like everything, coopted by marketers and business people like Guram. The company itself is entirely guilty of capitalizing on the hype (despite their work to limit supply), considering the increasing share of streetwear in the collections and the recent men's collection.

Just because the price point is exclusive and the materials (supposedly) high quality doesn't mean the product is not hyped thereby culturally disposable. The people buying those hoodies he speaks of are not ones to cherish a piece for years to come, if even a season. I'd venture to say that your typical Vetements consumer thinks the same way about clothes as someone buying Supreme and as someone buying fast fashion. Also, changing show schedules to move closer to a 'runway to racks' model is very, well, fast fashion.

Great interview though!

Not related, but my annoyance with Vetements has subsided somewhat. As Faust has said many times, its a case of too much too soon. The collections aren't great and I hope the hype passes soon so that they focus less on churning out streetstyle bait in response.

I'm also hoping that the team soon takes inspiration from current young, white, queer youth since its not far off stylistically and I'm sick of seeing everyone mine goth and new wave.

[Faust]

Vetements have been invited to show in Paris during the haute couture week. What does that mean?

http://www.sz-mag.com/news/2016/05/op-ed-is-haute-couture-losing-its-meaning/

[falkenauge]

Beautiful article, Faust. Love your writing style.

[guanny]

In a trade where everything novel, new, and fresh is all-important, it is very dangerous for the haute couture industry to merely tread on extant fashion houses. Introducing new names to the Syndicale wasn’t done in bad taste.

And in a trade where all things are reactionary, vetements and its logo-jacking, social commentary, and all things sarcastic is quite the hype, and is very befitting.

Surely this is the shape of things to come – diluted.

Though I shed a tear for the blunting of haute couture –– Charles Federick Worth’s lavish cage crinoline gowns, the incredibly, incredibly innovative Madeleine Vionnet and Jeanne Lanvin, Paul Poiret’s dripping decadence, Chanel who removed all that chi-chi from women’s clothes, the regal grandeur and gracefulness of Cristóbal Balenciaga, and Christian Dior who sculpted the female body and founded the fashion business model of modern day.

:’(