m.a+ (Maurizio Amadei)

[Faust]

NDF, while I agree with you, the things is, they don't SEEM luxurious enough to warrant the price - they seem pretty plain. Now if someone posted here explaining the fabrics, maybe we would understand it better. From what I heard, there was a jacket from the new season with some kind of insane fabric that is woven at a rate of 2cm a day. I don't know if that's even possible (unless we are talking about silk worms), but that kind of an explanation would justify the prices.

[crz]

that would take more than a month to make one garment

[Faust]

Well, it's not like they make the fabric :-)

[hobo]

Notu Jofu

The fabric that you're talking about is really woven at 2cm per day. It's called Notu Jofu and it is traditionally used for Obi belts (really fucking top end ones!). As with most of Maurizio’s stuff, it’s all natural fibre (Ramie).
I think that you’re right about the fact that the fabrics are a reason for expense. It’s also the expense of finding the fabrics. m.a+ employ one guy purely for fabric research. If we want these great fabrics, someone has to find them, but that’s just half the story. It’s also the cut.., in a far more serious way than with many other designers. M never uses straight forward cuts. For example, the T-shirt which I’m wearing now has no seems on the shoulder. The arm and chest are one piece which has a seam at the pit. It then has a seam horizontally and vertically on the front and back creating his trade mark cross. It’s not only really difficult to design pieces like that but it takes more prototyping and it requires much more skilled pattern cutters and machinists to make the garment. Stick in all the hand finishing and handmade silver buttons, and you’ve got some very labour intensive stuff.

Ps, That hoody's not itchy, ya big girl!

[Faust]

Haha, my delicate skin! Thanks for the clarification. That fabric WAS nice.

[Johnny]

Do we have a pollyanna member in our midst?

PS. lalala

[Fuuma]

Haha, my delicate skin! Thanks for the clarification. That fabric WAS nice.

I tend to go for more luxurious fabrics instead of rougher ones like MA+ uses (and don't wear MA+ although I appreciate it) but that doesn't mean he's not pushing the envelope as far as fabrics go. Rough is an aesthetic choice here.

[Faust]

That may be (although he has plenty of soft fabrics too), but there is a difference between rough and cheap-feeling.

[DHC]

The fabric that you're talking about is really woven at 2cm per day. It's called Notu Jofu and it is traditionally used for Obi belts (really fucking top end ones!). As with most of Maurizio’s stuff, it’s all natural fibre (Ramie).

Haha...I actually pulled my post down as it didn't really carry much information with it. I'll throw it back up.

Notu Jofu fabric. The rate of 2cm a day is something MA points out with a huge smile. I don't know much about the history of this house, but I'm sure its a lot to go into and by the way this is not your "run of the mill" Jofu either. There's something about the ramie fibers used that is different. (Some secret proprietary processing techniques perhaps?). The dying process is strictly done by hand using natural organic dyes and are not at all colorfast. I saw pictures of the production process and it looked pretty impressive. To bring the term up again, it is a true "cottage industry" operation.
Anyways, I didn't know shit about it when I first saw a piece constructed from it and my mind was blown! I wanted one for myself immediately! The fabric is flawless! Not a knot or single inconsistency that I could find in the thread used, which was very tight. This makes for a very strong fabric. The texture is VERY unique..both in appearance and hand. When I first saw it, it was against the backdrop of a window on a sunny day and blah blah blah....let's just say it is REALLY special.

Hobo...who you be?

[orphée]

IThey are absolutely gorgeous to wear but advice is (as with most Amadei pants) size down one.
With his jackets, excepting the aviators which imo fits true to size, advice is size up one.
And the quality of his clothing is almost without comparison.

I agree about sizing down on trousers with wide legs (drop crotch), but I've found his sizing spot on where trousers with narrower legs are concerned. In fact, I have a pair in his thick canvas-like material and if I had sized down, I would not have been able to get them over my thighs, which are lean.

About the rigid fabrics: they create a better silhouette, just like one would get with a canvas linea jacket or some of the fabrics on CCP's long coats. The fabric does, however, keep the wearer's mind on the piece of clothing, as it can be slightly unforgiving at times. I guess that's the sadistic side of such designers. Or perhaps they just want the wearer to stay focused.

[Faust]

DHC, that's the black one, right, with the woven pattern, crinkly? That thing was gorgeous.

[crouka]

I think it's noto-jofu (or joufu) that is being talked about, not notu.
it is generally said that you can only weave 20 cm a day no matter how hard you try.

though I know they explained it as 1cm per half a day.
not sure whether it's just misunderstanding, or it is really 2cm a day.
but maybe you can weave a bit more.

[hobo]

BUSTED!

Do we have a pollyanna member in our midst?

PS. lalala

Haha...I actually pulled my post down as it didn't really carry much information with it. I'll throw it back up.

Notu Jofu fabric. The rate of 2cm a day is something MA points out with a huge smile. I don't know much about the history of this house, but I'm sure its a lot to go into and by the way this is not your "run of the mill" Jofu either. There's something about the ramie fibers used that is different. (Some secret proprietary processing techniques perhaps?). The dying process is strictly done by hand using natural organic dyes and are not at all colorfast. I saw pictures of the production process and it looked pretty impressive. To bring the term up again, it is a true "cottage industry" operation.
Anyways, I didn't know shit about it when I first saw a piece constructed from it and my mind was blown! I wanted one for myself immediately! The fabric is flawless! Not a knot or single inconsistency that I could find in the thread used, which was very tight. This makes for a very strong fabric. The texture is VERY unique..both in appearance and hand. When I first saw it, it was against the backdrop of a window on a sunny day and blah blah blah....let's just say it is REALLY special.

Hobo...who you be?

Well, I wanted to stay ‘undercover’, until I found my way around the place, but... first post and that plan appears to be out of the window.

It’s ok though because I like the place anyway. You guys really seem to know your shit. Not like most of the other forums, which annoy me so much that I can't bare to read them!

By the way nice post DHC. Good info, thanks.

[DHC]

..Not like most of the other forums, which annoy me so much that I can't bare to read them!

Haha...is this who I think it is? If so, we talked about this last season and this is the forum I told you was an exception. I know how you feel about all the forums out there (again assuming you are who I think you are) and I'm really glad you like it here. Faust is the gent that runs this site and he damn well does a good job keeping this place from becoming a den of the dumb. As such, I'm grateful that he lets me stick around because I've thrown up some straight retarded posts. Yes, he is also forgiving. Thanks Faust! Stick around Hobo, whoever you are. Good times up in SZ.

[theaddict]

I think it is who you think he is...

Haha...is this who I think it is? If so, we talked about this last season and this is the forum I told you was an exception. I know how you feel about all the forums out there (again assuming you are who I think you are) and I'm really glad you like it here. Faust is the gent that runs this site and he damn well does a good job keeping this place from becoming a den of the dumb. As such, I'm grateful that he lets me stick around because I've thrown up some straight retarded posts. Yes, he is also forgiving. Thanks Faust! Stick around Hobo, whoever you are. Good times up in SZ.