m.a+ (Maurizio Amadei)

[lowrey]

Regarding the paradigm shift and Poell, I think his work is very hard to compare and classify alongside any other labels, he works completely in his own world and by his own rules and inclinations. As for the inclusivity, I understand where Hobo is coming from. There definately seems to be a certain, lets say mentality, in the entire operation that is CCP, one that also doesn't exactly venerate retailers. Well, parts of the process have been a total mess but perhaps this will change with the new format of annual collections. Personally I've had reasonable experiences in communicating with people at CCP, but I've heard of more non pleasant experiences as well. Its sad to hear a designer (or an operative figure nonetheless) have such views of other designers when there should be mutual respect, especially in such a small market as it all is. Still, I can't help but to appreciate the work, if not the entire operation. There are just things that have been so utterly unparalled.

as for Mr. Small, I have no trouble understanding why you bring him up. he is doing great things, runs a very respectable operation and most importantly is one of the nicest people I've met. I had a lengthy talk with him in Paris and it gave me great insight into where he comes from as a person and a designer.

[Faust]

here I am, catching up and I find some SZ at its best

I have to check that ma+ piece irl, I have been buying a lot of yohji pieces made of 100% ramie, sheer, and it's my favourite fiber nowadays.

let me spoil the fun. WHERE2KOP?!

P.S. I thought pure ramie is too fragile? How is that piece?

[philip nod]

Anyone who knows me will know that I have a seriously biased view of CCP. I don’t like his organisation. It smacks of everything that I have always pushed against. I am a capitalist but I am also a socialist. I believe that things should be as inclusive as possible. That’s why I am happy to spend time in my store, with people who I know have no intention of buying. They may not be able to afford the cloths, or they may just not like them, but we can try on and we can discuss. This costs nothing. This is called being ‘inclusive’. I also believe in building a close working relationship with my suppliers, who include m.a+ and LUC, Yohji and Issey, and even Lanvin and YSL... We work together towards a common goal, which is in part financial reward and for the larger part, a common interest in the art of fashion. This is ‘inclusive’. When I went to see ccp, I saw nothing of that. I saw nothing that said to me ‘inclusive’. Everything said to me ‘exclusive’. The attitude of the people there was one of superiority. This is exactly the opposite attitude of the likes of Grandma, Altieri, Geoffrey B. Small, and even Chrome Hearts. This attitude is not what I’m about. This is not what my store is about and, for me, it undermines the work of the artist. This attitude must come from the top and this is not an attitude that I can respect. Therefore it is not something that I want to be a part of. As far as I am concerned ccp may as well be stocked in the same elitist, exclusive stores that stock Versace and Escada.
As far as his actual work; I think that it is very interesting and I do think that it has integrity. He pays great attention to the detail of fabric and cut, in exactly the same way that Grandma does. The difference is that if you mention Carol to Grandma, he offers a respectful, thoughtful opinion of his work. When I mentioned the work of LUC and Grandma to Sergio at CCP, he dismissed them as ‘just more Carpe Diem knock offs’. Not true and not cool!


interu are rigsivity. this a consummething that woulale. before the consumhigh price to be pthing and must be flawless, and desiging mastlucky. ok. so you s paid to play at full retail. so what, shit happens, and so thats the shift. but in thney is scnd nading to figure out where and where not this is happening. and to be frank, whenxpectations you caned experofessional than ever to relevant.

[Faust]

DHC = world champion of redact. Are you making them into a book?!

[DHC]

lulz!! At this point I think it would be a 3 volume set.

[Avyer]

where 2 kop?

oh wait..

Redacted. By David Choi available at Sartorialoft late 2009.

[hobo]

Anyone who knows me will know that I have a seriously biased view of CCP. I don’t like his organisation. It smacks of everything that I have always pushed against. I am a capitalist but I am also a socialist. I believe that things should be as inclusive as possible. That’s why I am happy to spend time in my store, with people who I know have no intention of buying. They may not be able to afford the cloths, or they may just not like them, but we can try on and we can discuss. This costs nothing. This is called being ‘inclusive’. I also believe in building a close working relationship with my suppliers, who include m.a+ and LUC, Yohji and Issey, and even Lanvin and YSL... We work together towards a common goal, which is in part financial reward and for the larger part, a common interest in the art of fashion. This is ‘inclusive’. When I went to see ccp, I saw nothing of that. I saw nothing that said to me ‘inclusive’. Everything said to me ‘exclusive’. The attitude of the people there was one of superiority. This is exactly the opposite attitude of the likes of Grandma, Altieri, Geoffrey B. Small, and even Chrome Hearts. This attitude is not what I’m about. This is not what my store is about and, for me, it undermines the work of the artist. This attitude must come from the top and this is not an attitude that I can respect. Therefore it is not something that I want to be a part of. As far as I am concerned ccp may as well be stocked in the same elitist, exclusive stores that stock Versace and Escada.
As far as his actual work; I think that it is very interesting and I do think that it has integrity. He pays great attention to the detail of fabric and cut, in exactly the same way that Grandma does. The difference is that if you mention Carol to Grandma, he offers a respectful, thoughtful opinion of his work. When I mentioned the work of LUC and Grandma to Sergio at CCP, he dismissed them as ‘just more Carpe Diem knock offs’. Not true and not cool!


interu are rigsivity. this a consummething that woulale. before the consumhigh price to be pthing and must be flawless, and desiging mastlucky. ok. so you s paid to play at full retail. so what, shit happens, and so thats the shift. but in thney is scnd nading to figure out where and where not this is happening. and to be frank, whenxpectations you caned experofessional than ever to relevant.

At the risk of... What the Fuck?

[Avantster]

Every time pnod redacts a beautiful post, god kills a kitten.

[DHC]

haha..pnod's redact is going in the book. That one's a classic!

[zamb]

haha..pnod's redact is going in the book. That one's a classic!

I think he redacted because of his unwavering love for Carol..........

[DHC]

I don't recall the post mentioning Carol let alone anything being said that cast CCP in a negative light. And I guess I should state for the record that I have no grievances with Carol or his organization. They have always treated me with the greatest of kindness and have always welcomed me with open arms into their "home". And I still have a deep appreciation for his work. His work is amazing and that cannot be refuted. Just saying that the above is one of the greatest redacts ever. I love the jibberish left in its place. Gold!

[zamb]

I don't recall the post mentioning Carol let alone anything being said that cast CCP in a negative light. And I guess I should state for the record that I have no grievances with Carol or his organization. They have always treated me with the greatest of kindness and have always welcomed me with open arms into their "home". And I still have a deep appreciation for his work. His work is amazing and that cannot be refuted. Just saying that the above is one of the greatest redacts ever. I love the jibberish left in its place. Gold!

Oh, we all love Carol, for me, and I am sure many others he has been a source of inspiration in so many ways, guess I am just reading things into the post that wasnt there, Maybe I should join the redaction club too
I always say that one should never completely judge a person or an organization on the basis of other peoples experiences, because your experience may end up being completely different from theirs..............
and we all love P-nutty too, I read the original post, it never ceases to amaze me the genius level craziness he consistenly comes up with

[hobo]

I think mail moth would be an excelent frame for G B Small clothing.

welcome hobo, love your shop. I've been a little disappointed lately with your yohji buys tho.

Yes, I know many have. We all love his design. We've been stocking Yohji for around 20 years so it's been difficult to cut it back but the price is becoming a real problem, even for our ardent Yohji customers. It's partly the global ecanomic situation to blame but the Yen/Euro has not helped in importing to Europe and the Euro/Pound situation has further added to the problem. It has effectivelly made everything 50% more expensive. We only have so much budget and if the clothes are more expensive, it means that we have to buy less.

If there's ever anything that you want but can't get hold of though, drop me a line and I'll do my best to get it for you.

[pipcleo]

and the harnden collection seems rather diminutive considering your proximity to his pulse

[hobo]

and the harnden collection seems rather diminutive considering your proximity to his pulse

We don't work with Paul any more. Although I'm still a big fan of his work we simply had different views on how to retail his collection. Paul didn't want it on the internet, which is fair enough, but we are in Yorkshire, (that's 200 miles north of London, for anyone who doesn't know) and more than half the sales of his work were over the internet.

The other problem was the fact that he didn't change his styles very often, just the fabrics, and although the fabrics were fantastic, for our Harnden customers, there are only so many garments of the same style that you want in your wardrobe. This meant that sales in the store were beginning to dip, which meant that we needed the internet more than ever.

I still love his work though and I go into L'Eclaireur when I'm in Paris and have a look at what he's doing.