Label Under Construction (Luca Laurini)

[cjbreed]

as i recall the older (09, etc.) j-pant cut did have more of an anti-fit. a more severe silhouette. but you didn't need to size up. if u were normally a 50 and bought a 50 the waist would be like 18" and you just cinched it up with a belt. and they looked bad ass. like these from FW09 (hey canaduh!)



but if u have wide hips or are somehow thick in the middle it didn't look right. the newer models, including the anatomic j pant, still have an anti-fit, as most luc pants and jeans do, its just less severe and in my opinion easier to wear. can go with more outfits. less dramatic but easier to wear. like these OD overlock j-pants from SS10



pics from sartorialoft.

edit: although i haven't seen them personally, it does look like this newest version (fly yarn) are the least anti-fit yet. can't confirm that tho...

[magic]

here are some experience that i had from the pass j-pant i have owned. i am a true 46..

AW09- Medium cotton twill- Sized up 1(48). Roomy on waist and thigh, slim at calf.

SS10 Heavy cotton twill(on pic above)- TTS. Slightly roomy on thigh/calf.

AW10- Heavy cotton (Anatomic)- TTS. Slim on thigh, tight on calf.

SS11- Light/Medium weight cotton- TTS. Slightly roomy on thigh and calf.

AW11- Medium weight cotton- TTS. Slim on thigh and calf.

[zamb]

there is a critical aspect of all of this that is being overlooked.

one of the issues with J pants is that based on the cut, they effectively are slimmer in the Calf area that a regular pant.

the reason for this is that even though often the same measurements are used to create the pattern, because the fabric curves and goes along a slight bias of the fabric, it essentially results in a more snug feel in that area of the garment.

one of the ways I have tried to solve this problem is to cut the pants wider than normal in those areas.

Another thing to consider with the fit of pants from artisanal type designers is the variations in fit that results from the fabric treatment used in the garments rather than the cut of the patterns........

often times a two pants made from the same pattern with different fabric treatments will fit differently because of shrinkage etc, that happens during the processing stages

[DHC]

Thanks for another wonderful post Zamb. The treatment of fabrics aside..an article can be duplicated with the same pattern with all the volumes preserved and the inherent properties of certain textiles will cause a dramatic change in the way a given piece fits. Particulary true in this case as with any other pattern working on the bias of a fabric.

[Parable]

Has anyone handled the new waxed linen/cotton J-pants from this season? I've got a waxed denim pair preordered with Parable for SS12 and would like to hear more about the waxing that Luca is doing.

The SS12 waxed denim j-pants are made using fabric sourced from the UK - already waxed. The fabric is coated in melted beeswax and the excess wax squeezed off leaving a coating on the surface.

I am more than intrigued as to why the UK was chosen as the source of this particular textile. Hopefully I will be able to find out the answer and keep you updated.

[Chinorlz]

The SS12 waxed denim j-pants are made using fabric sourced from the UK - already waxed. The fabric is coated in melted beeswax and the excess wax squeezed off leaving a coating on the surface.

I am more than intrigued as to why the UK was chosen as the source of this particular textile. Hopefully I will be able to find out the answer and keep you updated.

Very interesting!

What would be involved in the care of these pants with this sort of treatment? A number of the "waxed" treatments for other brands really is sort of a resin/plastic based compound that is resistant to washing etc. whereas something truly organic such as beeswax would be more susceptible to a washout/heating.

The result could in itself be interesting after heating or warming, then crumpling and allowing it to cool in place....

[swami]

That does sound interesting , I am really curious about the waxed pair from this season too would love to hear some feedback!

These ...

[swami]

A pretty much flawless look ...

[MoFiya]

It indeed is. What pants is he wearing?

[gavagai]

I've really been interested in getting the most recent iteration of the fly yarn J pant but I've come to terms they just wont work.

H. Lorenzo has a beautiful example in "asphalt" but the model is wearing a size 48 and is noted having a 29inch waist.

I'm a 34 so sizing appears to be a problem. I like a tailored but somewhat loose fit on these but I guess I'll keep dreaming.

[Raw]

A 52 would work pretty well for you actually.

[Letraset]

A pretty much flawless look ...

Totally agree - really stood out in the Atelier suiting post. Hard-pressed to find any LUC pants that aren't outstanding.

[nictan]

oh my.. that jacket

[crouka]

I am more than intrigued as to why the UK was chosen as the source of this particular textile. Hopefully I will be able to find out the answer and keep you updated.

maybe it's simply the british company is distinguished for waxed stuff, as a supplier of it ?

[Faust]

Damn, son. That looks fucking good.