Label Under Construction (Luca Laurini)

[zen dog]

After reading some of the above posts, I called someone who was very helpful in educating me regarding Luca's techniques and past output.

It is curious that instead of overhyping a process, Luca goes to the other extreme, giving little info to a hungry audience. The person I talked to was reluctant to talk in this forum due to his affiliation with a shop.
However, I trusted his judgement enough to purchase the Double Layer Hooked sweater (I also liked the grilled sweater partly because its called "grilled sweater"), eating my words from my earlier post.

This sweater may be a revisit of earlier work but to someone who discovered the sz multiverse after so much has happened, I feel lucky to own (its on the way) a piece in an aesthetic I've always loved.

[the-orb]

Hopefully you can share your thoughts on the fabric, color and fit after you get it. I would be really interested in seeing the reverse side as well - as his hooked pieces often look very different on each side.

After reading some of the above posts, I called someone who was very helpful in educating me regarding Luca's techniques and past output.

It is curious that instead of overhyping a process, Luca goes to the other extreme, giving little info to a hungry audience. The person I talked to was reluctant to talk in this forum due to his affiliation with a shop.
However, I trusted his judgement enough to purchase the Double Layer Hooked sweater (I also liked the grilled sweater partly because its called "grilled sweater"), eating my words from my earlier post.

This sweater may be a revisit of earlier work but to someone who discovered the sz multiverse after so much has happened, I feel lucky to own (its on the way) a piece in an aesthetic I've always loved.

[Uppvakningur]

sz multiverse

!?

My point seems to have unfortunately been lost upon some of those who responded. We know that there had been a few seasons worth of strong ideas and corresponding, strong execution. Most of these have come some years ago with little in the way of shop buys to reflect where the label's creative energies are focused as of today. Instead, the discussion ends with 'but i have wanted these grails from the wtb thread for so long' or faust's 'we know because we go to the showroom'

Between the buyers lack of interest ( maybe rightly reflecting that of their & the designer's audience?) and lack of information shared by those in the know, humblebrags notwithstanding, we can't really have a discussion of the work.

[the-orb]

What exactly is your point? That there is nothing to talk about? I think many will agree that the newer work is not as innovative as it once seemed, if only from a regular's customer perspective. For now, we can only talk about what is there in stores currently. Some years ago, this thread used to have pretty strong discussions whenever a new version of the J pants came out, even if it was "just an update" on a previous design. I don't see why we couldn't have some of that again, especially if enough people are interested in what is currently available. LUC has never been much of a seasonal brand anyway - individual pieces are enough to get some discussion going. Of course, it would also help to have some insight about the label's direction from those that do have insider information.

!?

My point seems to have unfortunately been lost upon some of those who responded. We know that there had been a few seasons worth of strong ideas and corresponding, strong execution. Most of these have come some years ago with little in the way of shop buys to reflect where the label's creative energies are focused as of today. Instead, the discussion ends with 'but i have wanted these grails from the wtb thread for so long' or faust's 'we know because we go to the showroom'

Between the buyers lack of interest ( maybe rightly reflecting that of their & the designer's audience?) and lack of information shared by those in the know, humblebrags notwithstanding, we can't really have a discussion of the work.

[Uppvakningur]

if only from a regular's customer perspective. we can only talk about what is there in stores currently.

It seemed, reading back, as though there had once been the inclination to talk about designers and their work, perhaps aside from shops and their buys. I would like to at least see if that conversation can be had again, and you are seemingly admonishing me for pointing out that the stuff you are getting so excited about looks like a sort of 2008-2010 'greatest hits' reorder, except with rougher, simplified execution that seems to suggest having gotten the process (and the production costs) down a notch or two.

You are right, label under construction has never been a source of seasonal design and the results have seldom been anything dramatic. but there have been ideas and points of interest. most recent one i heard about was a new method of working the seams into the knit. But beyond a few mentions of this about a year ago, I haven't actually seen anything that was not shown years ago and I am asking those people who may have some thoughts about this to humour me on the subject.

I am definitely not asking for someone to tell me that we can only talk about what the stores are buying. Look at the image above what you had posted, and consider that we apparently know next to nothing about the work presented in it. Instead, you're frothing with excitement about stuff i've owned for the past five years. I find it seriously hard to believe that it is where luca has remained creatively ever since.

[the-orb]

If your intent is to find out about some specific new knitting technique, that is certainly not the direction I get from reading your posts. So far, you have emphasized how irrelevant other posts are to you, which is unnecessary. This thread has had discussion about techniques and individual pieces, so I don't think either discussion is irrelevant. My point is that in the absence of other information, it is possible to discuss the work based on the pieces that are found in stores. If a member is getting a specific piece, it is possible to discuss that piece and its construction. You are claiming that the PNP buy is some downgraded version of your personal collection, likely without even having handled or seen the new pieces in person. And if you have, it would be good to at least know what aspect of a specific piece made you think that rather than just pointing it out multiple times. Also, if you think I'm "frothing with excitement" you obviously did not read my posts carefully and coming off like a troll rather than bringing something to the discussion. Yes, I'm quite interested in some of the new pieces, more so than in recent seasons and no, I never claimed that members know next to nothing about it. The reason I brought it up is because I imagine that some members know about it and I would like to know more as well.

It seemed, reading back, as though there had once been the inclination to talk about designers and their work, perhaps aside from shops and their buys. I would like to at least see if that conversation can be had again, and you are seemingly admonishing me for pointing out that the stuff you are getting so excited about looks like a sort of 2008-2010 'greatest hits' reorder, except with rougher, simplified execution that seems to suggest having gotten the process (and the production costs) down a notch or two.

You are right, label under construction has never been a source of seasonal design and the results have seldom been anything dramatic. but there have been ideas and points of interest. most recent one i heard about was a new method of working the seams into the knit. But beyond a few mentions of this about a year ago, I haven't actually seen anything that was not shown years ago and I am asking those people who may have some thoughts about this to humour me on the subject.

I am definitely not asking for someone to tell me that we can only talk about what the stores are buying. Look at the image above what you had posted, and consider that we apparently know next to nothing about the work presented in it. Instead, you're frothing with excitement about stuff i've owned for the past five years. I find it seriously hard to believe that it is where luca has remained creatively ever since.

[Uppvakningur]

without even having handled or seen the new pieces in person.

[Faust]

!?

My point seems to have unfortunately been lost upon some of those who responded. We know that there had been a few seasons worth of strong ideas and corresponding, strong execution. Most of these have come some years ago with little in the way of shop buys to reflect where the label's creative energies are focused as of today. Instead, the discussion ends with 'but i have wanted these grails from the wtb thread for so long' or faust's 'we know because we go to the showroom'

Between the buyers lack of interest ( maybe rightly reflecting that of their & the designer's audience?) and lack of information shared by those in the know, humblebrags notwithstanding, we can't really have a discussion of the work.

My point has also been lost on you. I was pointing out that Luca's concepts are interesting but do are lost on the wider audience because the results do not translate into a final product that differs significantly from previous iterations, and the only reason we know about them is that we get to talk to Luca when we visit the showroom. I don't know how you interpret this as bragging about insider status.

[Uppvakningur]

Because the point of mentioning the latter here seems moot if you are unwilling to discuss what you have learned as a result. And that was also what I meant with my original post. Those in the know are no longer interested in sharing such information. Those who do not are no longer interested even in speculating about it. Thus "designers and their work" threads become "f/w arrivals" or "help finding".

[Faust]

Because the point of mentioning the latter here seems moot if you are unwilling to discuss what you have learned as a result. And that was pretty much the entire point of my original post. Those in the know are no longer interested in sharing the information. Those who do not are no longer interested in so much as speculating. Thus "designers and their work" threads become "f/w arrivals" or "help finding".

I'm not withholding information on purpose. I have not gone to LUC in three seasons (last week being the third), exactly because of what I mentioned - results look almost identical to previous iterations and Luca, while willing to explain to us in person is not really willing for us to do any meaningful coverage.

[zen dog]

My apologies to the-orb and anyone else waiting for my description of my double layer hooked sweater. I decided to purchase the sweater one day, and, knowing how quickly these things can disappear, purchased it 6am the next morning. Unfortunately there are two double layer hooked sweaters and I didn't give an inventory #. PNP was understanding and after a return and reship I now have my sweater.

It is a beautiful black that doesn't seem to lean toward warm or cold tones. Rather than appear abraded, the sweater has "bare" spots- (the underlying fine weave); an overall body of threads coming off the support, up to an inch long and one bare spot approx. 2 1/2" x 10" that has the weave (not just threads) completely separated and hanging on along one side.

The overall effect is too elegant to look like it had been worn for 20 years. I have a pair of LUC Italian military tent pants that do more to straddle that line between being truly beat up and of the present.

You were perceptive to ask about the inside as well, the-orb. Since it is black on black I'll just describe it as being a series of mostly vertical folds and almost invisible seams. For some wardrobe flexibility, worn inside out, the sweater could stand up to most anything else out there.

I normally wear a 50, am almost 6' 2" and purchased a large. It fits quite well, but couldn't be any smaller.

I'm very happy I stepped up and made this purchase. Oh yeah it has a very pleasant, slightly sweet smell.

S-Z multiverse over universe? Yes! there is color and pattern in the midst of darkness.

[caveat]

Hi everyone. I'm wondering if anyone could put me in contact with Luca.

I live in Portugal, but while in London I found a (supposedly) brand new scarf collar recycled knit jacket from 2012 and loved it so much that I had to buy it despite the fact that 3 of the buttons were broken/missing. I've tried to find something similar, but you just can't replicate the beauty and matte finish of those buttons and I'm hoping they might be willing to send me a few.

If anyone can give me an email, or tell me another thread that might be better to talk with them.

[TriggerDiscipline]

[Chinorlz]

always loved the scarf collar jacket... especially the scraps one. The button-in pocket is cute.

[lazyguru]

Only Luca could manage this without some idiotic seam to showcase the selvedge , Does Selvedge fabric even come this wide?

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