Label Under Construction (Luca Laurini)

[lowrey]

I've really been interested in getting the most recent iteration of the fly yarn J pant but I've come to terms they just wont work.

H. Lorenzo has a beautiful example in "asphalt" but the model is wearing a size 48 and is noted having a 29inch waist.

I'm a 34 so sizing appears to be a problem. I like a tailored but somewhat loose fit on these but I guess I'll keep dreaming.

34 true waist (as in trousers measuring 17" across the waist) or a typical SIZE 34? if the former, you should be able to fit a size 50 fine.

[xeraphim]

can anyone who has physically handled the fw11 farmer's jacket in the wool/cotton/linen blend comment on the fabric weight - too thick for spring/summer weather? putting in a special order, undecided between this or the 100% cotton (fly yarn?) version.

[Faust]

Too warm for spring/summer.

[MoFiya]

Silk-screening is the traditional process of dyeing, where the image is made on a screen and the dye is poured over through the screen and then a roller is used to press it in. It's handwork, and only one piece at a time can be dyed. I am not sure if picture quality is superior to the industrial method - I think it is (otherwise I don't see a reason for doing it). Someone who knows more can elaborate/correct.

Re silk screen / screen printing et al.
We've had quite some informative posts about the process of silk-screening (e.g. by Chinorlz).
However, I've just received a very special screen printed knit by LUC and I wonder how it was produced. I am especially curious since the whole print appears kind of natural (e.g. the lines going down the arms and the side of the body, the way the different colours mix up with each other).

Also, any details about the fabric would be appreciated. The wool is very thick and dense, yet super soft... Is it just the excellent knitting technique or some sort of ultra rare material which makes the price of the piece a little bit more justifiable?

[DHC]

The silk screening process seen on LUC articles are done by an Umbria based artist at his studio (not in-house at LUC). Though a "template" (if you want to call it that) may be prepared, no two items that sit under it will be the same as the fabric is creased and pulled in various places along the lines before the ink is pressed. So the effect is never the same on any two given pieces, due to the improvised process.
Price justification has become purely subjective. With LUC, in my humble opinion, there are several points to consider in the acquisition of pieces from the line, when dwelling on price. For instance, in the particular piece you have added to your wardrobe, the silk-screening is the highlight of the work in terms of aesthetics. It is post production work on a knit fabric. The yarns are spun tightly to a very fine gauge and are of very high quality. Thus a pure wool product without the negative effects commonly associated with the fiber (e.g. itchy, coarse, etc). Here, the old adage plays as the notion of value is found, not in the labor and/or cost of materials alone, but in the vision which is beautifully executed. The knit is done without break until such point a seam is deemed necessary (which he often alternates from one side to the next) and all panels are closed knits, so they are locked to minimize potential fraying. It is a thoughtful detail, but there is little in the way of experimentation in the knitting process. See O Project for exemplary pieces that showcase his ability to manipulate volume and textures. You will see that his gift is in his ability to produce unrivaled textiles, which are either interesting in hand due to composition or experienced in three dimensions before a garment is even produced due to tension play. This has made Luca a notable force and well respected amongst his "peers". So the medium itself is a work of art, rather than a clean canvas worked upon.

[MoFiya]

^ much appreciated
I've noticed several things of those you mentioned (e.g. the fabric not being itchy, the point that the knit is closed) but I don't know anything about the process of production until now - so thanks for that!
Also, it appears to me as Luca has used different knitting techniques on the grey and on the red side with the red side being woven in a vertical, more evident pattern. What also strikes me is the part around the shoulders on the red side. My language skills are not the best to describe the pattern but there is a different coloured and knitted "empty space" between the body and the arms. Kind of a seperation...
Just too many details to mention on this knit and I surely do appreciate it as a work of art. Very glad to have such a special piece of clothing in my closet And, unlike XXX, one can actually wear it out comfortably and it won't break down after some wear.
By the way, is the screen printing supposed to fade with wear / washing? Any recommendations on washing for this piece?

[bestial]

Aren't the differences in the knitting on the two sides just the purl and face (I hope these are the right translations, what I mean is basic home school knitting).



The screen printed tee I had got a bit smudged after washing, but that was from like 08. I think we had the discussion last year that the new printed knits had more stable coloring. Handwash in cold water shuld do the trick (as always) - but try for the most part to just air it.

[MoFiya]

^ yeah, you're totally right. Excuse my novice knowledge in regards to knitting / production of clothing.
I just posted some pictures of the knit in the archives. I tried to capture the aspect DHC mentioned: in the 2nd and the 4th picture, you can see that both sides of the knit are connected with each other. The pictures only show the main body, but the same holds for the sleeves.
The red is a very deep red, hard to capture. A bit similar to the earlier blood red Julius used.
Also, on this picture (colour not accurate) you can see the 'separation' area I talked about. Again, might just be the reverse side of the shoulder seam, but the screen printing adds a nice detail to it.

[TFXm]

Label Under Construction Classic Crisp Pants

Anybody has already bought or experience with this one?



Curious to know about the breathability as it contains PVA which acts kind of a binder-filler to the base material.

[TFXm]

Could be the result of PVA in the mix. Verticelondon piece looks better and more interesting.

[bonejelly]

I've always been interested in seeing how Luca uses graphic elements in his work, as they often seem quite tactical and original (thinking not only of the screenprint method discussed above, but also his cotton/bamboo 'target' shirts, the topographic knit with the varying thicknesses/levels of opacity, etc..)

I suppose the Signals collection was a further investigation of graphic application into the knitwear, which I seem to recall being received as 'gimmicky' but some on here, which is how I feel about the scraps knits LUC produced this fall.



I thought the encaged scraps jacket was incredible, but can't get behind these...

[lowrey]

this sweater is sized a bit strangely here, I recall it fitting slim and straightforward. I liked the black one I saw at the showroom, it had some of the scraps (outlined with the stitching) actually showing from the hem which looked kind of neat, but every piece is a bit different.

[surver]

woah, looks like H&M!

I've always been interested in seeing how Luca uses graphic elements in his work, as they often seem quite tactical and original (thinking not only of the screenprint method discussed above, but also his cotton/bamboo 'target' shirts, the topographic knit with the varying thicknesses/levels of opacity, etc..)

I suppose the Signals collection was a further investigation of graphic application into the knitwear, which I seem to recall being received as 'gimmicky' but some on here, which is how I feel about the scraps knits LUC produced this fall.



I thought the encaged scraps jacket was incredible, but can't get behind these...

[MoFiya]

The silk screening process seen on LUC articles are done by an Umbria based artist at his studio (not in-house at LUC).

Re: this.
I've noticed today that the tag states, that "this piece has been screen printed in the artisan's workshop". I was under the impression that the artisan refers to Luca himself, as many of the LUC pieces I own have a note similar to that.

[Faust]

Nope. It's as DHC said.