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Pattern Development, Materials Treatments and Construction
4 iterations of the jacket were required before the final version was constructed.
The second to last was fully lined, with zipper installed and all hardware sites marked so that the client was able to try it on (it was shipped halfway around the world for this) and request adjustments.
Before the final version could be constructed, a number of things needed fine tuning/R&D.
In keeping with my ethos, the heavy duty elastic that I chose to use was a medical/athletic grade elastic that stretched the short direction as well as the long direction (4-way stretch). Unfortunately, as with most of these types of elastic for health care use, it was white. Multiple test dye trials resulted in me using 3 different types of black dye to bring it to the rich black tone.
The other issue was how to create an effect on the leather that would make the black leather look "burned" and "destroyed". Actual burning of the leather resulted in irregular shrinkage/charring that remained black and at the same time destroyed any precise dimensions.
After testing various methods, I used a surgical scalpel (#10 blade) and painstakingly cut and shaved each of the edges that was to be "destroyed."
This was followed by hand sanding with low grit sandpaper over the same site to further wear down the leather in those areas.
Note that it is still a blue-black and not yet "burned."
After a number of tests, the best result of burning was achieved using 3 steps. The first was to use a carefully applied Dakin's Solution to lighten the edges so that recoloring with the brown/dark tones could be seen.
This was then allowed to process and lighten overnight before 2 dyes were applied one after the other. The first was an organic base light brown dye and the second was a synthetic brown that was darker to serve to transition from the black leather on to the lighter brown edge of the "damage." Each step was done by hand.
4 iterations of the jacket were required before the final version was constructed.
The second to last was fully lined, with zipper installed and all hardware sites marked so that the client was able to try it on (it was shipped halfway around the world for this) and request adjustments.
Before the final version could be constructed, a number of things needed fine tuning/R&D.
In keeping with my ethos, the heavy duty elastic that I chose to use was a medical/athletic grade elastic that stretched the short direction as well as the long direction (4-way stretch). Unfortunately, as with most of these types of elastic for health care use, it was white. Multiple test dye trials resulted in me using 3 different types of black dye to bring it to the rich black tone.
The other issue was how to create an effect on the leather that would make the black leather look "burned" and "destroyed". Actual burning of the leather resulted in irregular shrinkage/charring that remained black and at the same time destroyed any precise dimensions.
After testing various methods, I used a surgical scalpel (#10 blade) and painstakingly cut and shaved each of the edges that was to be "destroyed."
This was followed by hand sanding with low grit sandpaper over the same site to further wear down the leather in those areas.
Note that it is still a blue-black and not yet "burned."
After a number of tests, the best result of burning was achieved using 3 steps. The first was to use a carefully applied Dakin's Solution to lighten the edges so that recoloring with the brown/dark tones could be seen.
This was then allowed to process and lighten overnight before 2 dyes were applied one after the other. The first was an organic base light brown dye and the second was a synthetic brown that was darker to serve to transition from the black leather on to the lighter brown edge of the "damage." Each step was done by hand.
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