Yohji Yamamoto SS09 Paris

[Buckwheat]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto ss09 Paris



I think his use of different ages/body types of model makes you really look into the clothes...than just seeing a normal runway model putting on his clothes. That makes you think how different ages/body types can fit in his clothes, adding a layer of personality to it. Not as much as just being gimmicky.

His clothes might fall in to "baggy" for some people but to me it's more about "volume". His material choices and cuts fall in beautifully in a human body structure imo. I think the typcial "baggy" is not there in Yohji's clothes. His cut and material uses separate him from "dragging, overloaded" kind of baggy. Yohji for me is a state of being free, almost like flowing in the air a bit.

[Buckwheat]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto ss09 Paris

[quote user="Chinorlz"]

Next time I'm somewhere where they have a full rack of Yohji. I'm going to put on a full outfit and see what it's like when worn :)

[/quote]

I would like to hear from you too Albert. I think it will be interesting to find out. It's like going into different buildings with different kind of architectural languages.

[random]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto ss09 Paris



for some reason im not quiteinto this collection (not saying its bad but not his best.)

[Chinorlz]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto ss09 Paris

I promise you all, I will try them on next time just to see. I hope to understand :)

[Chinorlz]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto ss09 Paris

hahaha, don't worry. I won't hate it :)

[laika]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto ss09 Paris



Great posts, everyone. [51]

I don't really see why Yohji's clothes are equated with "old people," so often; nor do I see how over-sized clothes are a mark of being old? And where are all these old people wearing Yohji, anyway? [72]

The models don't look swallowed up by the clothes because they are young--they look that way because they are models!! The same blank faces we've seen walking in a dozen other shows, wearing dozens of different outfits. To look good in these clothes I think you need to have an affinity for them and not just an affinity for nice clothes or for fashion in general. They are not the kinds of things that you wear until you are sick of or something better comes along and you sell them off. (Not saying there is anything wrong with this practice, but it's completely against the philosophy of YY.) You wear these clothes until they become you.

I would like to see a Yohji show with Matt and Buckwheat and wire and avantster modeling [87]....i think that would put this age question to rest.

Albert, if you ever do try stuff on, be sure and take a pic. (And thanks, as always, for stirring the SZ soup! [73])

[Buckwheat]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto ss09 Paris



wire - I think it's nice to see a lighter collection than the last 2 military themes. He mentioned after the show "the world is becoming worse and worse, my message is - let's be happy".... I like the first 2 grey outfits with colors, remind me of CDG 2003. The button cuff on some pants are quite cool. I am not sure about his continuous use of prints on blazers...kind of reminds me the old Moschino :) I guess I can be just as happy with all blacks :)

[quote user="laika"]

I don't really see why Yohji's clothes are equated with "old people," so often; nor do I see how over-sized clothes are a mark of being old? And where are all these old people wearing Yohji, anyway? [72]

[/quote]

I think often time people see Yohji's clothes as what some old men would wear around town...black or navy sport coat, some slacks, a white shirt and a felt hat. Something timeless and not seeking for changes (might consider boring for some people). It's not about fascination, just a state of being calm sort of speak.

[Chinorlz]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto ss09 Paris

[quote user="laika"]

Great posts, everyone. [51]

I don't really see why Yohji's clothes are equated with "old people," so often; nor do I see how over-sized clothes are a mark of being old? And where are all these old people wearing Yohji, anyway? [72]

The models don't look swallowed up by the clothes because they are young--they look that way because they are models!! The same blank faces we've seen walking in a dozen other shows, wearing dozens of different outfits. To look good in these clothes I think you need to have an affinity for them and not just an affinity for nice clothes or for fashion in general. They are not the kinds of things that you wear until you are sick of or something better comes along and you sell them off. (Not saying there is anything wrong with this practice, but it's completely against the philosophy of YY.) You wear these clothes until they become you.

I would like to see a Yohji show with Matt and Buckwheat and wire and avantster modeling [87]....i think that would put this age question to rest.

Albert, if you ever do try stuff on, be sure and take a pic. (And thanks, as always, for stirring the SZ soup! [73])

[/quote]

I shall Laika :)

Yohji has always interested me in the sense that he has such a following. The silhouette is just so different (as seen on the runway and by the many fans he has on here) from the other sharp, superslim ones that it's something I haven't viscerally "understood" just yet. Most of us in our twenties probably transitioned from the oversized type clothing style (although I now understand that this is a controlled sort of "oversized" that Yohji does) to a more sharp and refined one a la Dior Homme first and then CCP et al.

Of course we each gravitate towards designers and aesthetics that we unconsciously feel ourselves matching. I went through a bit of a fashion crisis once DH went down the tubes and experimented with Ann (probably the widest cut pants I've ever purchased since high school hehehe), Rick and others before settling in on the few brands that i buy now. There's a level of "brand allegiance" I have... maybe it's an asian mentality or something along the lines of knowing that this designer is worth the $$$ to me and so why try to find another which "restricts" (although too strong of a word) me from being willing to spend these large sums of money on (an)other brand(s).

But I'll try the hell out of the clothes in the store! hehehehe

[Faust]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto ss09 Paris

[quote user="Chinorlz"]

[quote user="matthewhk"]i don't think this collection is so much about him as it is about him describing a world in which real men (as envisioned by Yohji in his mind) age from youth to old, faust asked where is the world he usually creates...i think it may not be as obvious as some of his other recent collections, but it's definitely there. A story of aging ... trying to make it through the day in front of a backdrop of turbulent and violent times.
[/quote]

I guess I've just never really understood Yohji. So.... it's well made but always just baggy? I see no tailoring skills there then when everything is just oversized. Not to say it's BAD per se, but I just don't see why people flock to it or why he has built an empire.

Overall I can only fathom that he's done so because 45+ year old men that want to be "fashionable" but have let their bodies go have something to wear now that they can spend large sums of money on and still fit into.

How come no one has mentioned Yohji's odd use of a plus size black model on the runway in the middle of everything? That with the old men almost marginalizes the clothes for me. He had to rely on model gimmicks that detract from the clothes (newspaper, milk?) and unfortunately make them so very ordinary.... and why would people (I know they do... but the logic defies me) pay a serious premium for ordinary?

Some of the detail shots show some really lovely work but it seems like that's the minority of what went down the runway. The blazer/coat hybrid is just plain lazy and too trendy. You could only wear it once a year.

[/quote]

Oh boy, oh boy, do I have something for you on that subject by one of the great tailors!!! [87] Can't share it yet, but soon I'll send it to you.

[sbw4224]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto ss09 Paris

[quote user="laika"]

I don't really see why Yohji's clothes are equated with "old people," so often; nor do I see how over-sized clothes are a mark of being old? And where are all these old people wearing Yohji, anyway? [72]

[/quote]

I think when I was referencing Yohji being equated with "old people," I'm just coming from what I've heard first hand from the manager and sales people at the London store. They told me the majority of their customers are "older," and those in this category are the ones who buy most of the stock. They said they do get a lot of "younger" types coming in, but mostly just to look or to pick up something small.

[matthewhk]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto ss09 Paris

thank god for close proximity to Tokyo.

[Faust]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto ss09 Paris



[quote user="wire.artist"]we can't afford european prices...I do online shopping, yoox, Y! ans always during sales...his stuff it's among the most expensive...the old guys have the money.
[/quote]

Heh, you just wait to see the prices this season. $2750 for a blazer, baby!

[soultek]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto ss09 Paris

[quote user="Faust"]

Heh, you just wait to see the prices this season. $2750 for a blazer, baby!

[/quote]

I know, I was at the LA Barney's and they said they got 3 of that jacket that everyone on SZ was admiring, already sold one within a week for near 3k. Thank god for sales.

[matthewhk]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto ss09 Paris

If they've already sold one and it has just hit the floor while the weather is still hot, and there are only 2 left, what are the chances of that thing making it to sales time?

[Faust]

Re: Yohji Yamamoto ss09 Paris



[quote user="matthewhk"]If they've already sold one and it has just hit the floor while the weather is still hot, and there are only 2 left, what are the chances of that thing making it to sales time?
[/quote]

Pretty big, I'd say. Selling usually goes in two spurts - once when it hits the floor and people must have their musthaves, and then during sales. everything in between is rather slow.