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Re: Yohji Yamamoto ss09 Paris
Review from IHT:
"PARIS: Size was the starting point of theYohji Yamamoto menswear collection, according to the smiling designer, but he wasn't just referring to his choice in models (who came in all shapes, sizes, colors and ages) but to the clothes as well.
This was a show filled with easy, loose-fitting suits that looked as if they had been part of the models' personal collections for years - although it is hard to imagine any man wanting a cream-colored burlap suit.
It was a collection full of creativity. But what came through most strongly when watching the likes of the writer Marc Cholodenko and the artist Steve McQueen amble down the runway was Yamamoto's playful mood.
The designer transferred key features of classic menswear to unexpected locations. It was as if he had run the suits through a transporter and all of the bits hadn't returned to the right place. This meant a jacket's buttonhole cuffs were found at the bottom of a pant, sections of suit lining were sewn onto the outside of a blazer, and back pockets grew out of pant legs. There were even a few schizophrenic jacket/coats that had been spliced together, but they weren't a shock to the system in their black-on-black incarnation.
When the designer took to the runway with a band of sartorial brothers, it was clear this was a collection of easy artistry with a whimsical soul made in the image of the man himself. "
Review from IHT:
"PARIS: Size was the starting point of theYohji Yamamoto menswear collection, according to the smiling designer, but he wasn't just referring to his choice in models (who came in all shapes, sizes, colors and ages) but to the clothes as well.
This was a show filled with easy, loose-fitting suits that looked as if they had been part of the models' personal collections for years - although it is hard to imagine any man wanting a cream-colored burlap suit.
It was a collection full of creativity. But what came through most strongly when watching the likes of the writer Marc Cholodenko and the artist Steve McQueen amble down the runway was Yamamoto's playful mood.
The designer transferred key features of classic menswear to unexpected locations. It was as if he had run the suits through a transporter and all of the bits hadn't returned to the right place. This meant a jacket's buttonhole cuffs were found at the bottom of a pant, sections of suit lining were sewn onto the outside of a blazer, and back pockets grew out of pant legs. There were even a few schizophrenic jacket/coats that had been spliced together, but they weren't a shock to the system in their black-on-black incarnation.
When the designer took to the runway with a band of sartorial brothers, it was clear this was a collection of easy artistry with a whimsical soul made in the image of the man himself. "
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