Gareth Pugh F/W 09 Mens - Paris

[KodakII]

I like a lot of it, but some of it looks to be recycled mens looks from the F/W 07 collection( the one with the slashed leather dresses).

[kucejoe]

I actually think that a lot of the pieces from the women's shows are more wearable (for men) than this.

I do, however, love the jacket Merz posted.

[c.r.e.a.m.]

I might be against popular opinion, but I'm not feeling this at all. too much edward scissor hands, too much shine, too much triangle/pyramid shiet, too much big bird fur, what, spikes. shiny, sharp, too angular. ~~puffy rick vest but not as good. ~~

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copyright drunked runway reviews

im with you on this one, the materials and cuts are not attractive to me, just a little too flashy. considering his womenswear, this was a decent first show for the mens line. but i just couldnt see myself wearing most of the peices in this collection, but thats just me.

[Heirloom]

this is good for people who are more easily bored than others. I do think that this palette is a lot more lushious and deeper than the womens collection which also makes it more wearable. I'm deeply grateful to see that other people appreciate this kind of overthetop aesthetic as much as I do. I want life to be a sci-fi story :) it can be.



this coat is freakishly amazing.

[Heirloom]

i'm sad that these things won't see production. I agree that there has to be a scale between H&M and 100% techno, but there are just soo many designers making basics, i'm glad to see this balanced up. there are too many choices for basics, but not so much for editorial wear. i'm merely happy for diversity.

i was talking to almroth earlier, and we both agreed on that there needs to be knits, something organic, and not all synthetic, partial breathability, a pause, a gradient. that i agree with. but the knits doesn't have to be basic. :D more is more. woo.

[Vahiren]

Besides the extreme hardware pieces, why aren't they going to be produced? I see many individual pieces that would sell like crazy. those skinny straps tank tops that are cut low are awesome for little androgynous kids like me. his little signature patent triangle leather jackets really are beautiful. and the jackets with the armored shoulders/sleeves are amazing.

I don't care for the harlequin shit, but that's his schist and it makes for a good show.

i don't know, over all i enjoyed it but somehow was expecting more. i think i like the rick inspired pieces only for the rick element. whereas with rick it was the opposite. i was expecting complete shite and put my foot in my mouth.

[Casius]

I see quite a bit that I think would get produced and bought as well. But I doubt it will be bought by many; There are only so many stores like Seven.

Those pieces with the spikes however....yea, those are a bit much.

[Casius]

From hintmag:

Before reading any further, you need to know this about Gareth Pugh: he's not a fucking goth, at least not in the traditional slash-your-wrists sense. His weirdness lies in his search for the emotively powerful, stuff that projects strength. Take, for instance, triangles. "They're a simple, powerful shape. They fit so many of my references," he said backstage at his debut men's collection. The sharp-looking yet soft-to-the-touch metallic needles—like a furry Eraserhead—was a logical step from the triangular, he said, adding, "We went further than sci-fi for something deadly new that doesn't look like it came off a spaceship."

The show was coat heaven, as in oh-my-god-I-need-to-be-rich-right-now coats. There were quilted and knitted leather coats, lizard-skin coats, coats with armor-like shoulders and so on. Pugh only deviated from black to do chrome and gunmetal, reworking leather, metal and wool to ever greater effect. Oh, and that hair wasn't gelled down—it was tar.

[mesh]

I might be against popular opinion, but I'm not feeling this at all. too much edward scissor hands, too much shine, too much triangle/pyramid shiet, too much big bird fur, what, spikes. shiny, sharp, too angular. ~~puffy rick vest but not as good. ~~

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copyright drunked runway reviews

I find myself ageeing with Arto far too often but I hate all that triangle/pyramid shit too.

[Chinorlz]

after I began to accept Pugh's work as more towards a haute couture sort of thing, I started to like it more. Instead of thinking "do I like this aesthetic, will I wear this, who wears this?!" I could sit back and just enjoy the construction and design.

So... i like Gareths show for what it is. You'll probably never see me buy a piece or wear a piece, but some of the stuff in this show sure is cool!

I can't quite figure out the "point" of his shows though since people are saying almost nothing seen is getting produced. Do Lamy and Owens support him purely as an artist and don't expect any sort of investment return?

[Servo2000]

I have trouble imagining that there is not at least some money in it. As successful as Rick / Lamy are I have trouble imagining they can support a runway show strictly out of artistry.

[maldoror]

The sharp-looking yet soft-to-the-touch metallic needles—like a furry Eraserhead—was a logical step from the triangular...

wtf does this mean? am I just stoned or is it the most nonsensical namedrop in history?

[Servo2000]

I still haven't looked at Doma. I hope he does haha!

I'm beginning to feel like the lack of production - or "artistry" - should be resolved. "Editorial" is losing it's satisfaction as an excuse (could there be a more vapid content-producing excercise?) and while I will argue for a broader definition of "wearability" Merz' complaint rings true regardless. I feel like the short film he produced last season was a step in the right direction - why not make something even more?

I loved Browne's collaboration with that film artist and think that Pugh could do something similiar - contextualize his talents for costume in someone elses (or even his own) artistic piece.

[Sombre]

As a collection I think it's excellent. It represents what Pugh is and clearly shows his vision. I think there are quite a few wearable pieces. Production runs should be tiny for the majority of the pieces, but I can imagine many people wearing at least a couple of those things.

[Servo2000]

I still haven't looked at Doma. I hope he does haha!

I'm beginning to feel like the lack of production - or "artistry" - should be resolved. "Editorial" is losing it's satisfaction as an excuse (could there be a more vapid content-producing excercise?) and while I will argue for a broader definition of "wearability" Merz' complaint rings true regardless. I feel like the short film he produced last season was a step in the right direction - why not make something even more?

I loved Browne's collaboration with that film artist and think that Pugh could do something similiar - contextualize his talents for costume in someone elses (or even his own) artistic piece.

All that said - I certainly have enough fun imagining my own Pugh-populated universes editorials and film or not! This collection was more than sufficient visual-and-imagination-fodder-overload. Enjoyable all told. I can't wait for him to discover colors (and I mean this with no ill intent or sarcasm).