Leather quality - who's best?

[pantanal]

True on Vass. He does not do true bespoke like Scafora/berluti/lattanzzi/Lobb

Vass uses several lasts including Ugolini (another true bespoke artist) for the Italian lasts(i think he refers to it as the U model). And yes he does not make a full custom made last but he will make the shoe to your satisfaction. I sent my cordovan's back to him twice after he had done the measurements in the Budapest store and he did fit them perfectly. Quite honestly, his shoe is more comfortable than some of the full bespoke ones I have

You did read but you did not understand.

Your main point is:
Interesting thread. Almost no mention of real quality bespoke shoemakers who make some of the best and most expensive shoes in the word.

The problem with your post is:
It is one of the main topic of this thread. That we didn't mention Lattanzi is irrelevant.

ps: Vass does not offer what certain people would call true bespoke (custom made last to your measurements) but rather modified lasts, he still makes very good hand made shoes (this is also true of the RTW). I believe it points to the rather restrictive definition of bespoke that has developed on online forums and not to the myriad approaches an artisan may have to bespoke.

[Faust]

And you forgot the main point, nobody on this forum gives a fuck about any of these in terms of aesthetic.

[michael_kard]

Agreed with Faust on this one. There are myriads of comparison threads in other fora that attempt to decide on which brand offers the best made shoes in the world. The point of this specific thread, however, is to discuss quality within the wider aesthetic framework of SZ.

Side note: In my view, this photo demonstrates clearly that quality of construction may have nothing to do with integrity, and can in fact be reduced to something incredibly gaudy and crude.

[Fuuma]

And you forgot the main point, nobody on this forum gives a fuck about any of these in terms of aesthetic.

Lattanzi used to make some of the highest end Jil Sander shoes. While this isn't the dominant position here I'm sure I am not the only one who enjoys his Vass, Materna, Lobb, Corthay and Massaros. Hell I even own a pair of Allen Edmonds wingtips. I don't wear english shoes because I find them to be a little too conservative but large Mitteleuropean ones go great with a Yohji or other flowy looks.

I guess the main point of the thread was that the construction and finishing of so-called Artisan shoes pale in comparison with truly artisanal/handmade (or at least partly handmade) shoes from high end traditional brands. I don't really see that as a problem as they cannot be substituted for one another due to deep aesthetic differences, the artisan brands (Guidi, Carpe etc) are made quite well anyway and are more than durable.

[Fuuma]

Agreed with Faust on this one. There are myriads of comparison threads in other fora that attempt to decide on which brand offers the best made shoes in the world. The point of this specific thread, however, is to discuss quality within the wider aesthetic framework of SZ.

Side note: In my view, this photo demonstrates clearly that quality of construction may have nothing to do with integrity, and can in fact be reduced to something incredibly gaudy and crude.

That's a Gabriele D'Annunzio reference but, yeah, don't see how someone who isn't a complete dandy in all aspects of his life can wear this.

[Faust]

So, I read that Horween is outfitting a boxing ring for the upcoming Chicago SoHo House's gym. Balling.

[Fuuma]

So, I read that Horween is outfitting a boxing ring for the upcoming Chicago SoHo House's gym. Balling.

That is interesting considering you'd have to punch my lights out to get me inside a Soho house.

[Faust]

Eh, it's not that bad on a weekday. Weekends, yes.