Carol Christian Poell

[fenrost]

the new seasons stock of CCP derbies that are coming in are absolutely incredible.....for this season the leather code is 'CUBA' vs last season which were 'GROIL'....the scarring in the leather is absolutely beautiful

actually, 09 footwear leathers :

coil = cordovan (stiff, obverse smooth texture)
groil = kangaroo (soft-like, dye tend to be off than the described color/code, roo leather rejects dye more, color more unique)
cuba = horse (stiff, the so-called, scarred leather in the 09s, i guess the precise description are obverse and reverse in one piece)

cuba boots

[fenrost]

the elements of irregularities in one piece, best curated by runner.


..

"the way the selvedge and the rest of the fabric are is the state that is ambiguous
as it can be considered as a thing that is incongruous as well as two things that are unified.
naturally he let his inward monomaniac sink in that direction of disparity too.
in its vision there is perhaps something like a shoreline, a vague boundary on earth between water and land,
brought into focus gradually, it's more like a substance that either is freezing or is thawing on the contrary.
then a block of half icy meat in a drip on a hook in a slaughterhouse.
two dirrerent textures, phases of one thing.
blurred interface.
this abstract concept is concretely perceivable in the irregular surface of a piece.

- for example, cordovan that has on one side both reverse texture and obverse texture,
the boots whose suede-like texture turns smoother as it goes further down to the toe.

- the fabric with phase transition, that is, its weave pattern is gradually changed.

- object dipping - products dipped in latex. it almost has the appearance of confectionery topped with icing. but technically in this case confectionery bottomed with icing.
it is representative of not only the process of phase transition but also the unsteady existence of the boundary."


...

will try to break down:

as seen mostly in the "scarred" leather in 09(Cuba), previous seasons have been coded differently as I suspect technique of scarring were unique each collection: CUB, CALB, etc etc)






this one piece irregularities element are seen not limited within leathers, perhaps leather dipped in latex, - forms the shapes of the object and drips gravitationally before solidify - object-dyed as whole to unite the irregularities into one.



and fabrics, notably in the suits and coats : Worph and Morph, density and texture woven transitionally.



closeups fabric transitions:


transitions- arms were curve, but it's irregularities were aligned to the torso.

[BeauIXI]

Thanks for continuing to make this thread fucking mindblowing, dudes.

[Fade to Black]

the assym was at library in a 52, fit like a glove. proves that the only tailoring for me is the wrong kind

[eton97]

Quick question on CCP technique: are leathers such as CUB and CALB where we see obverse and reverse textures merging, and where we see scarring, natural irregularities in the hide? or are they created by poell using special processes?

[BeauIXI]

the assym was at library in a 52, fit like a glove. proves that the only tailoring for me is the wrong kind

Buy now.

[seenmy]

and fabrics, notably in the suits and coats : Worph and Morph, density and texture woven transitionally.



closeups fabric transitions:


transitions- arms were curve, but it's irregularities were aligned to the torso.

this fabric really intrigued me when I saw it in the flesh,there was apair of womens pants in it at L'e, really dense and stiff I wanted to try it on and understand the fit but there was no size.

what pant styles had this fabric in the mens line?

[BSR]

great posts fenrost, thank you!

@ seenmy: afaik WORPH/MORPH pants come in the breadsticks cut (i have them) and the asymmetrical cut (here).

[seenmy]

thanks BSR,Il try and check the breadstick version out at darklands next time I'm in berlin,Im not so keen on the asymmetrical fly

[fenrost]

Quick question on CCP technique: are leathers such as CUB and CALB where we see obverse and reverse textures merging, and where we see scarring, natural irregularities in the (different)hide? or are they created by poell using special processes?

i guess it's a mixture of what was mentioned.

what pant styles had this fabric in the mens line?

breadsticks and classics. fairly certain they can be also done in the split series and spirals, however - they might not have the irregularities depends to certain styles?

i own a 09 paper fabric (cotton + ramie, mind you) breadsticks with rain texture, and saw another split pants in that fabric but there's no rain texture but with chain-seamed splits. so i am just assuming the special effects in those fabrics may be limited.

*^ok thanks bsr for that link

[BSR]

*^ok thanks bsr for that link

;) it's your size, R, indeed!

[Faust]

Buy now.

ask questions later.

[tomatous]

s/s 07

[Monty76]

invisiseam

[Monty76]

box, twist, spiral...