Cool Fashion Books?

[howl]

Guys, could somebody do me a huge favor? If you own the book on Rei Kawakubo called ReFusing Fashion, could you scan the Harold Koda essay for me? TIA.

i got this one, do you still need it?

[Faust]

No, got it already. Thank you!

[tweeds]

Sexy as an issue of Cosmopolitan...

Stunning.

[crtk001]

my dear bomb



still waiting to get my hands on this

[howl]

two recent nice reads..

[syed]

The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion

Just finished reading this - good and interesting academic book. Her style of writing is really easy to follow and to the point. She covers a heck of a lot of research and information in a really short space, but that's not surprising given that the book is essentially from her PhD work. I now really want to read her PhD, just to really get into all the research she clearly did, because the book is a bit of a tease in that respects - you get all the important points, but it's a stream of facts and compilation of interviews (in the second half). Maybe I'm just spoilt from the more conversational style of the likes of Wilson or Steele

The title is a bit odd as well, because although the book discusses Japanese designers in Paris, that is left to the second half. The first half focuses on the fashion system - the institutional legitimization of fashion - converting clothing to fashion. She discusses the history of fashion in France, and how and why Paris has become the capital of fashion worldwide. Starting from Louis XIV's desire to make Paris the cultural capital, through to the history and importance of the garment industry in Paris, to the institutionalization of high fashion with the Couture and Pret a Porter Federations. She stresses the importance of the gatekeepers (magazines, newspapers, publicity), as well as being able to get listed in the Federation so you get a good slot at fashion week, which all enable your designs to become 'fashion'.

The second half focuses in on three types of Japanese designers in Paris...

Kenzo - the Japanese designer who for all intents and purposes became Parisian.
Yohji/Rei/Miyake - the avant garde, iconoclasts. She skirts around the label of Postmodern designers, although I think it is a justified label. I think Hirakawa put it nicely when he said that they were postmodern in the way they used the framework of Western tailoring to entirely deconstruct it and explore more 'Japanese' themes, whether consciously or not...and we all know how much the three of them hated being labelled as creating 'Japanese' fashion.
Hanae Mori - the first Asian couturier, consciously using Japanese themes and styles in her couture.

She really stresses the inferiority complex of the Japanese, in that they require validation from Paris. Japanese designers really were not (and still aren't?) recognized until they had that Parisian success. Indeed in interviews with Japanese designers, they all stress the importance of having that 'Made in France' label on their clothing for domestic success, with regards to the Japanese market.

However she does quite nicely explain how the Japanese are really thirsty for new and young designers, willing to back them financially (albeit provided they have potential for European success, rather than Japanese success). The distinction between the Parisians, who are interested in labels with names of dead designers, and the Japanese, who are interested in labels with names of the newest designers, was quite nice. She also explains the lack of a support system in Japan for designers, and how Bunka trains really amazing technical dressmakers and pattern drafters, but to become fashion designers they have to go to Paris.

There are also some really nice quotes from the likes of Yohji and Rei, and people who have worked with them. Rei walking into the studio, chucking a crumpled piece of paper onto the table, and telling them 'I want a dress like this'

Oh, and she touches on the whole 'can Couture survive' debate, from a more practical viewpoint than creative viewpoint.

[Faust]

For those waiting on my review of the McQueen book from the Met, give me a few days - I am ordering it from Amazon.

[frail]

Not sure if this has been mentioned yet. 296 Page Rick Owens book due out early October.

http://www.amazon.com/Rick-Owens/dp/0847836630/

[Faust]

Not sure if this has been mentioned yet. 296 Page Rick Owens book due out early October.
http://www.amazon.com/Rick-Owens/dp/0847836630/

What do you think?

[viv1984viv]

What do you think?

ha! Glad I logged in - just pre-ordered it now! Can't wait.

[Faust]

A fantastic book on Tim van Steenbergen by the author of Young Belgian Fashion Design and a future StyleZeitgeist Magazine contributor!

[Shucks]

A fantastic book on Tim van Steenbergen by the author of Young Belgian Fashion Design and a future StyleZeitgeist Magazine contributor!

as u know i recently picked up jonge belgische mode (dutch version). awesome book and good writing - so lookin forward to the future colab! btw. have the beans been spilt anywhere on SZ about the mag?

[Faust]

Waiting for my design firm to do the proper flyer after they laughed at my pathetic attempt at the SZ party invitation. But, yes, I am very happy Veerle graciously agreed to write for the magazine - she's a legend.

[docus]

The book/catalogue from the Yohji exhibition at the V&A is quite good. 192 pages, interviews, lots of photos - makes a pretty good retrospective:



Not bad for GBP 20:

http://astore.amazon.co.uk/thetrendb...ail/1851776273

[Faust]

/\ I was underwhelmed. Good thing I did not sell Talking to Myself before I got this. But, yeah, for this price it's an Ok primer.