Label Under Construction (Luca Laurini)

[swami]

This looks awesome, So envious of you guys who got to see it in person.The little I have handled has surprisingly blown me away ,
Its amazing how these things come to life in person.
BTW was Project-O just a one off thing?

[Diego]

BTW was Project-O just a one off thing?

Good question, scarves and hats are good.

[DHC]

BTW was Project-O just a one off thing?

It was a project that saw a few seasons and was basically a means that allowed Luca to freely experiment with the use of carefully selected old military fabrics. The availability of the high quality in the level of vintage fabrics he chooses to work with are scarce...on top of which the specialized treatments they undergo make for higher prices. You know what I'm talking about if you've tried pricing those pieces out. He has since introduced many of the techniques and fabrics to the Label Under Construction collections. The prices are higher than Luca's "standard" fabric developments, but they are well worth the overage. As the saying goes, "you get what you pay for". True, the proverbial cliche doesn't always hold weight, but it certainly stands true with the Label Under Construction line.

Edit: Still jetlaggin' so I hope the post is a coherent one.

[Xenophobe]

s/s2010 - dope

If I ever get the chance I'll kop this.

[casem]

I'm truly surprised so many people are on here are digging the white pimp coat

[kbi]

that's what I was thinking too.. must feel wonderful but wearing that jacket makes you look either like a walking pola bear or the next best p.i.m.p

[delirium]

Second Faust here. S/S10 is stunning. Perfected construction deconstructed.

Applied science in the realm of the arts = Label Under Construction. And those leggings are a perfect example. The kind of work that goes into the development of his knits is dizzying...e.g...Leggings fabric: Experimental yarns manipulated with water of varying ph and controlled temperatures which acts as a kind of solvent. I'm talking about water changing prehensile properties of the fibers here folks. The man is a mad scientist.

This is extremely cool.

Do the leggings have varying stretchiness and thickness? Or is it one layer of fabric that was manipulated to be more or less dense?

Definitely, want to look into these for the gf when they're released.

[jcotteri]

please sir may i have some more?

i concur

[DHC]

If I ever get the chance I'll kop this.

I doubt that you will. Its not a piece meant for production. I'm not sure of the wearability of it either. Its not a fur coat. I don't know what its constructed from, but it almost looked like it was made from clouds of the cumulous variety. As much as I would have liked to have handled it, the opportunity to acquaint myself with the piece was never extended, thus the uncertainty. Looking at it and not being able to study it was like wearing a pair of high Linea boots and having an itch on the arch of your foot.

[DHC]

This is extremely cool.

Do the leggings have varying stretchiness and thickness? Or is it one layer of fabric that was manipulated to be more or less dense?

Good question! The fabric is a knit of varying composites and "thread count" from one cm to the next. The answer is yes to all points of your inquiries.

[bestial]

has anyone seen or try on the suture stitch pants that the archive has in their 09 preview. only looking at the pictures makes me wanna kop instantly. would be nice the hear some first hand impressions.

[lowrey]

as promised, a few pics of the dyed J-trousers:

[magic]

those details kills...

[jcotteri]

They look absolutely beautiful mike

can you tell us more about the fabric please

[lowrey]

its heavy cotton, apart from the dye I'm not sure how they've been treated, but the surface has a brushed texture, sort of like wool. maldoror's description was very thorough:

not jeans, but a stiff & heavy cotton pant. texture is sort of velvety to the touch, similar to past seasons luc heavy cotton. artisan dying gives great texture to the fabric and depth to the black, leading to an irregular surface which comes out grey along the fold lines (and warrants its own care spiel in the booklet).

not really j in the traditional ccp sense, although you get the same (albeit far less dramatic) towering verticality to the stacking. single seam per leg which curves subtly around the leg when worn, beginning at the back at the waist and ending at the outside of the ankle at the hem. these bifurcating seams are spined with heavy stitching visually resembling a hybrid of overlocking and linea digital stitching. (would appreciate some further explication re stitching technique)

fit is slim through the thighs and very slim down the calf with semi-low rise. I sized up, and I never size up.

more than any other garment I've handled these things make absolutely no sense until they're on a body.