Carol Christian Poell

[awlouie]

Re: Carol Christian Poell



Only Poell can think of shit like this...I think he was a vampire in his previous life! Genius!

Cool gloves Sammy! [75]

[soultek]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

[quote user="Casius"]

Soul- Here ya go brother.

[/quote]

Thanks Cas, you're a life saver!

[Fuuma]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

[quote user="DHC"][quote user="a cretin hopped"]


if i understand correctly, this means he will stitch raw bloody hides together, before they've been treated at all?! [:O]

[/quote]

[74][86]That'd be crazy. I could actually envision Poell doing this..haha. I believe what he is doing is taking rawhide (cleaned, stretched and dried skin) and constructing the pieces with it. Once the piece is done, he tans (altars the protein structure to stabilize the skin's properties) and object dyes (colors) the piece. So the piece is also object dyed as well. Its a much more difficult process and I am not entirely privy to all the benefits of it, but its exciting to know a new process has been undertaken. The one thing I have noticed in the difference of object tanned leather pieces is that there appears to be changes in the texture of the leather that are purely illusory. So greater control of the aesthetic and textural qualities may be achieved in the final product...i.e. the appearance of wrinkles that are not there. You see them, but the surface is smooth. Its fucking amazing.

[/quote]

How leather is treated:

1) Raw skins are softened in barrels of water (removes dirt and preservatives used to conserve the skin), nowadays we use lime to soften the skin and facilitates hair removal

2) Flesh(epidermis)is removed from raw skin, first using machines then finished by hand. The layer kept is the corium.

3) Skin is inspected and graded

4) Lime solution is neutralized and washed out

5) Skins are softened using a process called "bating"

6) Skin is divided between several layers; grain or top layer is used for uppers and the flesh layer is used for linings

7) I assume Poell makes his shoes at this stage

8) Tanning and post-tanning follows, if you feel like knowing what it entails I can explain....

[Fuuma]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

Here's why building a shoe before tanning it is a bad idea (not sure what Poell does exactly): tanning basically gives the leather resistance to water, heat and a good elasticity and sturdiness. The whole building process puts a strain on the leather due to all the manipulations and untanned leather could be much more affected by it making the resulting product prone to breaking and accelerated decay. Note that once the tanning process is over skins are usually checked once again for problems and I doubt Poell would do the same on a completed shoe.

[Trendy Andy]

Re: Carol Christian Poell



I would like to hear you explain it.[73] I find this to be fascinating and I'm sure I can speak for those few on this board who would respectively concur with my request. [8-|]

[quote user="Fuuma"][quote user="DHC"][quote user="a cretin hopped"]

if i understand correctly, this means he will stitch raw bloody hides together, before they've been treated at all?! [:O]

[/quote]

[74][86]That'd be crazy. I could actually envision Poell doing this..haha. I believe what he is doing is taking rawhide (cleaned, stretched and dried skin) and constructing the pieces with it. Once the piece is done, he tans (altars the protein structure to stabilize the skin's properties) and object dyes (colors) the piece. So the piece is also object dyed as well. Its a much more difficult process and I am not entirely privy to all the benefits of it, but its exciting to know a new process has been undertaken. The one thing I have noticed in the difference of object tanned leather pieces is that there appears to be changes in the texture of the leather that are purely illusory. So greater control of the aesthetic and textural qualities may be achieved in the final product...i.e. the appearance of wrinkles that are not there. You see them, but the surface is smooth. Its fucking amazing.

[/quote]

How leather is treated:

1) Raw skins are softened in barrels of water (removes dirt and preservatives used to conserve the skin), nowadays we use lime to soften the skin and facilitates hair removal

2) Flesh(epidermis)is removed from raw skin, first using machines then finished by hand. The layer kept is the corium.

3) Skin is inspected and graded

4) Lime solution is neutralized and washed out

5) Skins are softened using a process called "bating"

6) Skin is divided between several layers; grain or top layer is used for uppers and the flesh layer is used for linings

7) I assume Poell makes his shoes at this stage

8) Tanning and post-tanning follows, if you feel like knowing what it entails I can explain....

[/quote]

[kira]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

[quote user="Fuuma"][quote user="DHC"][quote user="a cretin hopped"]


if i understand correctly, this means he will stitch raw bloody hides together, before they've been treated at all?! [:O]

[/quote]

[74][86]That'd be crazy. I could actually envision Poell doing this..haha. I believe what he is doing is taking rawhide (cleaned, stretched and dried skin) and constructing the pieces with it. Once the piece is done, he tans (altars the protein structure to stabilize the skin's properties) and object dyes (colors) the piece. So the piece is also object dyed as well. Its a much more difficult process and I am not entirely privy to all the benefits of it, but its exciting to know a new process has been undertaken. The one thing I have noticed in the difference of object tanned leather pieces is that there appears to be changes in the texture of the leather that are purely illusory. So greater control of the aesthetic and textural qualities may be achieved in the final product...i.e. the appearance of wrinkles that are not there. You see them, but the surface is smooth. Its fucking amazing.

[/quote]

How leather is treated:

1) Raw skins are softened in barrels of water (removes dirt and preservatives used to conserve the skin), nowadays we use lime to soften the skin and facilitates hair removal

2) Flesh(epidermis)is removed from raw skin, first using machines then finished by hand. The layer kept is the corium.

3) Skin is inspected and graded

4) Lime solution is neutralized and washed out

5) Skins are softened using a process called "bating"

6) Skin is divided between several layers; grain or top layer is used for uppers and the flesh layer is used for linings

7) I assume Poell makes his shoes at this stage

8) Tanning and post-tanning follows, if you feel like knowing what it entails I can explain....

[/quote]

Please continue...very interesting to me. I think it is important to know the entire process or as much as possible, when you are wearing, utilizing an animal.

[AKA*NYC]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

Can't we just stay on topic and continue to discuss prices and retail outlets? I find all this technical stuff very confusing. [86]

[ddohnggo]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

there was a picture from ccp with what looked to be some dried white leather hides, which were then dunked in some type of water solution. similarly, there was a picture of that constructed boot on the ccp site that was also in the solution as well. i'm not sure what the water solution was doing though.

[Fuuma]

Re: Carol Christian Poell



Ok, those were some quick requests :)

8) Tanning used to be done through a vegetable solution but improvement in chemical science helped tanneries switch to chrome-salt tanning, which yields better results in shorter time (7 weeks vs 7 months). The skins are placed in rotating vats with tanning solution and end up being a weird bluish-grey colour (vegetal=light beige).

9) water is removed from the skin

10) skins are inspected, once again, for flaws

11) Skins are dyed wither intubs or with a spray gun (staining), this method means the dye doesn't penetrate as far into the skin

12) Skins are dryed (several methods, using high heat)

13) Skins are treated with fat to restore softness

14) Skins are ironed in a process called "smoothing"

15) Product ready to be sent for construction.

[kira]

Re: Carol Christian Poell



Thank you.

[ddohnggo]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

[quote user="Fuuma"]

Ok, those were some quick requests :)

8) Tanning used to be done through a vegetable solution but improvement in chemical science helped tanneries switch to chrome-salt tanning, which yields better results in shorter time (7 weeks vs 7 months). The skins are placed in rotating vats with tanning solution and end up being a weird bluish-grey colour (vegetal=light beige).

9) water is removed from the skin

10) skins are inspected, once again, for flaws

11) Skins are dyed wither intubs or with a spray gun (staining), this method means the dye doesn't penetrate as far into the skin

12) Skins are dryed (several methods, using high heat)

13) Skins are treated with fat to restore softness

14) Skins are ironed in a process called "smoothing"

15) Product ready to be sent for construction.

[/quote]

i believe this is what dave is talking about. the ccp boot was immersed in this solution on the ccp site. so it looks like he did do object tanning on a pair of shoes.

[Fuuma]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

Hmm, ok. If I were you guys I'd wait until someone else bought those and wore them for a while. Sounds cool when discussed but it's actually a bad idea.

[Who?]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

There was an episode of How it's Made where they featured the production of leather. I will try to find the video, it was pretty great to watch what Fuuma just described.

[lowrey]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

thanks for the rundown Fuuma, very interesting information

[philip nod]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

fuuma, are you self educated on this or did you spend some time in the factories? just curious, seems like super specialized shit.