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  • cjbreed
    Senior Member
    • Feb 2009
    • 2711

    #91
    welp, its been 6 months since this thread has seen a post. so i decided to offer a brief opinion on layer-0 footwear. i'm no shoe expert but i've owned a good bit from all of the usual sz suspects and it seems to me that layer-0 is the red headed stepchild of the bunch, and thats totally unwarranted.

    this is the shoe i own, with the pics and description from sartorialoft:

    layer-o sartorialoft



    2.0 cm heel ankle boots finished with shell cordovan/calice on the upper to the vamp and the toe box finished in reverse cordovan. The calice provides a beautiful movement of color that pairs well in contrast with the reverse cordovan. Aging of the boot will show vein like strands on the toe box due to the reverse leather.


    i may be biased since i think this is probably one of the nicest offerings from layer-0 and its my only firsthand experience, but overall the shoe is like a 10/10.

    the leather itself is incredible. my impression of it thus far is that it is designed to be broken in over time. it started out pretty soft around the ankle and very stiff everywhere else. and there is a rawness to it that i think will age beautifully and develop a very nice patina. i've only had these a few months and they have softened up and appear to be showing the first signs of an evolution. in fact, i've actually decided to wear the hell out of this shoe just to see what happens. (side note: it seems so often that the closet is full of shoes that are of amazing quality and "built to last" but get worn so sparingly and gently just because we've got too many damn options in the shoe arsenal. gotta get em all, right? lol. but how will i ever know if something was worth the money if it never gets used as intended?)

    the whitewashed looking effect on the leather has diminished a lot. as has the upturned toe. it still has a slight lift to it but not at all like what you see when its new. it actually creates a pretty cool silhouette. and the glue around the sole has cracked and started to break and i think it looks interesting and pretty unique.

    the fit if the boot was the first thing that struck me. in my experience its been very rare to buy a boot from a1923 or ccp or the others and have it fit perfectly on first try. with no loose areas or painful areas or sliding areas and so on. there is also a great deal of detail and precision involved in the actual construction of the shoe, including the leather lining, the laces with the metal detail and single knotted end, the split heel and split shaft, the stitching is even and precise and there's no loose ends or squeaky sounds or flaws of any kind whatsoever. my impression is that there is a primary focus on the actual skill and process of good old fashioned shoemaking for layer-0, as opposed to...oh lets say, different skins or treatments and textures or funky shapes and dyes and so on...

    i guess if i were to make any sort of comparison of this shoe to the ones most worn around here i'd say they are most like m.a+, which has always been the shoe that i'd say is "the best" of the group, based on overall quality, fit, last/shape and aesthetic.

    so in other words, this is a nice ass boot. in fact, of all the boots and shoes i've brought to my cobbler over the years, this is the only one he has ever commented on as being a nice looking, well made boot. its good looking, its versatile, its tough, its solid and well built, the shape is cool, the leather is interesting and its reasonably priced for this corner of the market. well worth the investment and a solid thumbs up from me, for whatever thats worth...
    Last edited by cjbreed; 09-15-2014, 11:30 AM.
    dying and coming back gives you considerable perspective

    Comment

    • cjbreed
      Senior Member
      • Feb 2009
      • 2711

      #92
      ok good talk guys
      dying and coming back gives you considerable perspective

      Comment

      • drizzly
        Banned
        • Apr 2012
        • 665

        #93
        I had this similar conversation with Marco at PN/P. He was wearing a pair of Layer-0 that he really wore in and they looked great. I tried on 2 pairs of L0 over time.
        1. backzip bison boots - did not like leather texture
        2. red cordovan laceups - did not like the last

        My not liking was more based on aesthetics, quality wise i have no doubt the boot were superb.

        i really dont like this last that Alessio uses http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3cgOX-S71M...0/IMG_4770.JPG
        but i really like this one
        http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0Coi_mUQn4...0/IMG_4757.JPG coincidentally this last sells out faster.

        i'll try to re-post the images to show on website later.

        Comment

        • Ivans On High
          Banned
          • Oct 2008
          • 481

          #94
          I have this style from a few seasons ago in horse leather:


          And have worn them almost daily for over a year. They have held up incredibly well, and look as good, if not better, than the day I bought them.

          The details and build quality is outstanding, and the closer I look the more impressed I become.

          When purchased they also had a slight white-wash, but that has disappeared completely now (or has been polished over, more to the point).

          The leather quality is really nice, and the lining gives them a great sturdiness, which means the shape has held up to a proper beating, without any distortion. I also haven't had to worry about the outer wearing thin at the stress points.

          As for comfort, these shit on all the other shoes I own (perhaps slightly less so compared to MA+), including Rick sneakers, which should be perfectly comfortable.

          I also owned a pair with the slightly more square toe box, but they didn't work with my wardrobe so I sold them. But they too were built like tanks.

          Comment

          • lowrey
            ventiundici
            • Dec 2006
            • 8383

            #95
            I have the same derbies as Ivans and have really been beating them up for a couple of years, easily my favorite derbies

            I noticed that recently (ss14 or fw?) there has been a slight change in the last and the toebox is slightly pointy compared to the old ones, not a huge fan of this as the old shape was perfect imo. I'm not sure if its all the derbies or just some?

            The new season's clothing is also looking very cool. It's somewhat rare and not discussed much as cj pointed out in another thread, but it's indeed great. Too bad the collection hasn't been shown during men's fashion week for a while now, so I haven't seen the full lineup in a few years.
            "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

            STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG

            Comment

            • ronald_bne
              Member
              • Jun 2010
              • 54

              #96
              Going slightly off topic, I washed my Layer-0 heavy canvas 5 pocket pants by hand today.

              When they touched water, they almost instantly turned to stone. I've never quite seen such a reaction before.

              Alessio is sourcing some pretty epic canvas, maybe even military grade?

              Anyways I hope you enjoy these pics... lol.





              Comment

              • TriggerDiscipline
                Senior Member
                • Apr 2013
                • 859

                #97
                That situation happened to me except I was wearing them,

                moral of the story is, don't go outside during a typhoon.


                These are my favorite pants I own though, I must say, and I wish my L0 denim was just as stiff.

                This is also my favorite brand out of everything discussed in this entire site.
                Originally posted by unwashed
                Try to use a phone camera in broad daylight or use a proper camera.
                Originally posted by Ahimsa
                I've found it extremely pleasant and enthralling over repeated whiffs so I would highly recommend.

                Comment

                • drizzly
                  Banned
                  • Apr 2012
                  • 665

                  #98
                  awesome!

                  Comment

                  • braver
                    Senior Member
                    • Sep 2013
                    • 171

                    #99
                    Hope to hear someday how new L-0 troll pants turn to stone when exposed to sunlight.

                    Comment

                    • cjbreed
                      Senior Member
                      • Feb 2009
                      • 2711

                      Originally posted by braver View Post
                      Hope to hear someday how new L-0 troll pants turn to stone when exposed to sunlight.
                      what does that sentence mean?
                      dying and coming back gives you considerable perspective

                      Comment

                      • cowsareforeating
                        Senior Member
                        • Jan 2011
                        • 1030

                        hes casually referring to the myth that trolls turn to stone when exposed to sunlight in certain folklore or children's tales.


                        I'd compare the shoes to A1923 but finished more like m.a+.
                        Not a fan of most m.a+ shoes... too soft of a leather for my taste

                        Comment

                        • Faust
                          kitsch killer
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 37849

                          Originally posted by cowsareforeating View Post
                          hes casually referring to the myth that trolls turn to stone when exposed to stylezeitgeist
                          fixed
                          Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                          StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                          Comment

                          • byhand
                            Senior Member
                            • Dec 2011
                            • 273

                            Alessio also does a nice blazer. The skinny arms and high pit is a fit that the thin folk can appreciate. He usually does interesting seaming for the shoulder. The cut is much better than most of his peers, evidence of his long study of patternmaking. photo layer-01_zps3acb3066.png
                            Last edited by byhand; 09-18-2014, 05:53 PM.

                            Comment

                            • byhand
                              Senior Member
                              • Dec 2011
                              • 273

                              Would like to travel back a few years to pick up a pair of these:

                              Comment

                              • Lucky Strike
                                Senior Member
                                • Apr 2009
                                • 101

                                Originally posted by ronald_bne View Post
                                Alessio is sourcing some pretty epic canvas, maybe even military grade?
                                It was over 10 years ago I did my service...but if I remember correctly...rain was not a good excuse to stay inside so Im putting my money on NO, the canvas is probably not military grade if it turns into stone when in contact with water.

                                Comment

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