A1923 / Adiciannoveventitre (Augusta)

[cjbreed]

yeah it has some of the luc farmer jacket in it too. but honestly its just a basic jacket with a lapel thats been around forever. lots of designers use long sleeves. i don't think its a rip off. either way its nice. it all looks nice.

[michael_kard]

That jacket is beautiful. I love the collar - I'm genuinely impressed by the way it fits as well, in most photos I've seen Augusta jackets seem to have a really sloppy fit.

[lowrey]

but honestly its just a basic jacket with a lapel thats been around forever. lots of designers use long sleeves. i don't think its a rip off. either way its nice. it all looks nice.

this.

yes, the jacket looks like a dozen other jackets, because its a clean cut jacket. I own 4 blazers from harnden and having handled all versions of these jackets, they aren't really alike. I think its simply the stitched together lapel that gives that impression.

as for pricing, yes, its expensive, not really a surprise. So is LUC, Harnden, m.a+ (which were already mentioned above...) and many other labels of equivalent quality and craftmanship.

[zamb]

this is a stupid discussion, and its kind of time for smart people like SZ members who obsess about every detail of a garment to not be so quick to make irresponsible statements like these.

or the most part the pieces presented here are all classic pieces that no designer can say they have a legitimate ownership of. stitching the lapel and collar of a jacket together is a classic tailoring technique to prevent the lapel from sagging over time and creating a gap between the lapel and collar that most people dont like on peaked lapel jackets.

Its also interesting and quite unfair to me that some of the people who are quick to accuse certain designers of copying are rather quick to defend the designers they like or are promoting when similarities that seem like copying are pointed out in their work.........

If there is anything I would say about all of this, it's not so much about copying, nor about Simone's work as these are all nice classic pieces that no one designer can say they own, but that the is a certain lazy simplicity and lack of creative diversity pervading this niche market, when I look at a lot of what is being produced there is no moving forward, very little innovation and a kind of blandness slowly creeping in across the board......................there has got to come a time when the aesthetic is expanded rather than narrowed, when things are views from a different perspective and a fresh vision brought to the fore..............at the moment I am just not seeing that.

I know that some will now come and say hey, as a designer you are not the one to be saying this but I am a consumer too, I wear stuff from other people. Also it has never been my thing to not honestly speak what i think to be true............and right now as I look at many collections and online stores a lot of it just looks very same to me.....................

[Peasant]

....and right now as I look at many collections and online stores a lot of it just looks very same to me.....................

yours included?

[surver]

this is a stupid discussion, and its kind of time for smart people like SZ members who obsess about every detail of a garment to not be so quick to make irresponsible statements like these.

or the most part the pieces presented here are all classic pieces that no designer can say they have a legitimate ownership of. stitching the lapel and collar of a jacket together is a classic tailoring technique to prevent the lapel from sagging over time and creating a gap between the lapel and collar that most people dont like on peaked lapel jackets.

Its also interesting and quite unfair to me that some of the people who are quick to accuse certain designers of copying are rather quick to defend the designers they like or are promoting when similarities that seem like copying are pointed out in their work.........

If there is anything I would say about all of this, it's not so much about copying, nor about Simone's work as these are all nice classic pieces that no one designer can say they own, but that the is a certain lazy simplicity and lack of creative diversity pervading this niche market, when I look at a lot of what is being produced there is no moving forward, very little innovation and a kind of blandness slowly creeping in across the board......................there has got to come a time when the aesthetic is expanded rather than narrowed, when things are views from a different perspective and a fresh vision brought to the fore..............at the moment I am just not seeing that.

I know that some will now come and say hey, as a designer you are not the one to be saying this but I am a consumer too, I wear stuff from other people. Also it has never been my thing to not honestly speak what i think to be true............and right now as I look at many collections and online stores a lot of it just looks very same to me.....................

well said and agree, zamb :) am first to admit guilty to your criticism re jumping to quick conclusions and fully agree with you re the stagnation of the aesthetic and lack of innovation (or perhaps more importantly lack of thought)... everything has melted into each other and it's becoming quite boring and bland...

... perhaps we should start a thread to discuss/brainstorm possible new directions... ponder/explore what the next 'zeitgeist' should be...? and if any promising 'new futures' are dug out through this 'open forum' then there would/should be no qualms/problems for anyone being accused of 'copying', referencing, etc :) perhaps this is/should be the 'mission' of SZ? if we are able to do this i think it would be infinitely more interesting and constructive and towards a greater good benefiting all :) what do y'all sz-ers think?

[zamb]

yes and no
bur if you want a detailed answer I will not give it

I respect Simone and I will not discuss my work in a thread designated for his

[Peasant]

I hear ya. Some other time.

[bonejelly]

personally i'm glad to see simone taking his garments in a somewhat 'classic' direction. innovative as they might have been, i really wasn't feeling some of the futuristic rubberband sneaker/boot stuff that came out in the past few seasons.

i think augusta's materials and execution are what tend to stand out for me the most anyway. looking forward to handling these garments in order to see what their story is, firsthand.

[lowrey]

"uniform"

You actually nailed it here; both designers have actually said that they design clothes they want to wear themselves. I don't think they really have an interest to take it much further than that, they can do that with the footwear which is their expertise.

[mortalveneer]

augusta firenze

[ransacked rivet]

I'm trying to find images of the past toe-box shapes for A 1923- does anyone know where I can find a general comparison? Finding top-down shots of toe-boxes is harder than it sounded...

[garbage_queen]

simone's a real master at lifting from others... doesn't anyone see PH in the jacket and coat??? i know PH is not the only one that references the pointy lapel detail and the multiple buttons from history... but the combinations of the stitched together pointy lapel + narrow shoulders & slightly 'A' shape of the fit/cut are just a bit too [shameless] direct imo...

I totally agree with you
traced many influences from other people!

[gavagai]

Those coats look nothing like Paul Harnden.

[garbage_queen]

Those coats look nothing like Paul Harnden.

I mean, that Simeone "takes" some elements from other designers! Of course it makes it all his own way but that a cursory look at once raises the question: "Where I have seen it?!"