A1923 / Adiciannoveventitre (Augusta)

[gavagai]

Well you quoted someone who was saying that he was shamelessly lifting other peoples designs.

It has been covered very well in previous pages but the jackets in question are classic pieces.

I think if you delve into the intimate details and textures of the pieces they would be quite different than what is coming from other designers.

[garbage_queen]

I agree that it is acting in its own way, interpreting the successful work and methods of other people! I can not say that I am critical of his work, but still I felt for some "other influences" on it, on the part! He does his job and does it well, though there are sometimes complaints about the quality of the product!

[Peasant]

I can't say I'd every complain about the quality of his work. Everything I own holds up and has a character all it's own. That being said; the copying argument couldn't be more relevant. I don't completely agree with it but some comparisons are hard to evade. Designers see it too and it's changed his process. I'll just leave it at that.

[garbage_queen]

About the quality, what I have personally seen it breaks in the skin that wearing only increase, Loose furniture!

[Jin]

some nice pieces in Atelier:

love this volume and shape


another great laces from Simone

[sissyleaks]

1) CCP

2) MEMORIA (Laces)

This guy is like mario. He loves his 1ups.

There seems to be no consistency with his approach. He basically does his version of what other designers come up with. Not to say that his work is of bad quality, but it just lacks any integrity or direction whatsoever in my opinion.

[Jin]

oh, and here we are again.

ccp didn't invent this type of boots and wide cloth laces been used in the classic shapes, though unintentionally, a long time ago.

[BSR]

it's not the question of the origin (where does this shape come from initially?) that truly matters. what matters is exactly what sissyleaks points out: every time a 'new' design comes out in this small niche market, one or two seasons after you can see augusta's take on it. not the other way around, strangely...

btw, i know a designer (very well-known, you can find his collections at many 'SZ' retailers) who buys entire racks of ccp (and used to buy cdiem) for his so-called 'archives'... but he's more clever apparently: his designs are 'inspired' from past collections (5 years or more) that most people in this shallow world can't remember. except the designers that must be a bit pissed off.

[sissyleaks]

^jin

i think I am aware of that.

But this is all within context... The above 2 models, along with many of simones creations are not a result of innocent exploration of details or forms but rather a calculated study and re-interpretations of recent models from other designers.. Hence my post. I dont mean to beat a dead horse, but at some stage this guy(simone) has to progress and find his own voice...

I am well aware of his work since the beginning, and his first collection was perhaps the only one where i feel the volumes and details seemed less borrowed.

It would be ignorant of us to let the research and development of other designers go unnoticed. The one piece boot above is an obvious reference to carols one piece derby, in all aspects of aesthetic.

S has a good hand for material treatments and makes sturdy shoes, but it ends there...atleast for me it does. He has had ample time to craft his own ideas.....these deliberate references each season leave me nauseous and cold

But this isnt something new in the Italian shoemaking world.
I can give you a hand full of Italian factory owned Brands that churn out well made copies of Carpe and Old Carol and of any other 'pure' designer coming out one or two seasons after their release... Unfortunately, Simones creations are at the top of the 'copy' ladder.

[sissyleaks]

btw, i know a designer (very well-known, you can find his collections at many 'SZ' retailers) who buys entire racks of ccp (and used to buy cdiem) for his so-called 'archives'... but he's more clever apparently: his designs are 'inspired' from past collections (5 years or more) that most people in this shallow world can't remember. except the designers that must be a bit pissed off.

Well i wonder whom this might be

I know simone used to wear Paul harnden, and Carol...so its obvious that he likes their work and borrows from it. But it is ok when designers borrow and study, but its sad when the end result looks like a poorly done rehash that looks more like a copy than like an evolution

[Jin]

^ ^^
well, don't want to start this discussion again.

BSR, as far I know, this form is the development of the theme of the pull-on army and work boots that are being pierced, assembled and laced up to acquire additional comfort for the owner.
I exactly saw Russian boots bent and connected manually very similar way on the exhibition devoted to the Crimean War.

[BSR]

^ ^^
well, don't want to start this discussion again.

BSR, as far I know, this form is the development of the theme of the pull-on army and work boots that are being pierced, assembled and laced up to acquire additional comfort for the owner.
I exactly saw Russian boots bent and connected manually very similar way on the exhibition devoted to the Crimean War.

sorry Jin but i don't see your point. mine was just that Augusta's inspiration is to be found within the niche where it operates, whereas for instance CCP or Cdiem's are to be found elsewhere

[Faust]

1) CCP

2) MEMORIA (Laces)

This guy is like mario. He loves his 1ups.

There seems to be no consistency with his approach. He basically does his version of what other designers come up with. Not to say that his work is of bad quality, but it just lacks any integrity or direction whatsoever in my opinion.

BULLSHIT. They look nothing like either CCP or Memoria. Different laces, really, that's your criticism? Is there a limit to nitpicking?

(Agreed on the rest of the argument, he has swiped in the past).

[sissyleaks]

^ did you see my second post?

BSR's last post puts it well.- His inspirations are sourced within the niche he operates in.


And please


those first boots are a direct reference to these... its so bleedingly obvious.

[lowrey]

1) CCP

2) MEMORIA (Laces)

This guy is like mario. He loves his 1ups.

There seems to be no consistency with his approach. He basically does his version of what other designers come up with. Not to say that his work is of bad quality, but it just lacks any integrity or direction whatsoever in my opinion.

I won't deny that he hasn't had some obvious influences in the past and present (though linking thick laces to memoria is ridicilous), but saying there is no direction seems very invalid. Would you seriously mistake either of these boots to what you compared them to? I can instantly tell they are Augusta from just these photos, most notably because of the shapes, creasing, treatment, the sole...