A1923 / Adiciannoveventitre (Augusta)

[qazwsx]

i know it says "DO NOT HANDLE WITH CARE" on the A1923 shoebox but i don't think that's what mr.simone wants his customers to do to his work. Isn't the whole purpose is to let the owner wear down the boots without paying too much attention 'taking care' of the boots so that the leather can age spontaneously? i could be mistaken but if i were you i wouldn't have done that...

[lowrey]

er, its his boots, who cares. I'd understand the concern if they became disfunctional or looked ridicilous, but they look good imo.

[mortalveneer]

while I don't think most designers want customers to buy their clothes and film themselves burning it and cackling gleefully, I think some amount of customization, even destruction, is welcomed by such designers. Many of the cut to fit Linea/L'Maltieri/Carpe entries come to mind, and the CCP jacket washing also seems analogous.

Would I have gone after the fiberglass? Really a function of how much I paid for them in the first place...I would get more wear out of them as they look now than how they looked before, that's for certain.

This may all be coloured by the fact that I stapled a pair of unworn 10 Sei 0 Otto derbies encaged in chicken wire about 35 feet up a tree near the continental divide in Colorado, just to see what happens after a few years, so I may be predisposed towards the alleged iconoclasm seen here...

[cjbreed]

imo they look way better and are more wearable now as well

[lowrey]

a small (and very sneak) peek from the showroom:

http://www.sz-mag.com/news/2013/04/a1923-fw13/

[magic]

the clothing line looks great, as usual. Any insight of the fabrications?

[Faust]

Very heavy English wool, IIRC. Awesome.

[Vehk]

hmm. what about new welt? Looks like Simone try to step in Altieri's footprints again.

[gnow]

^ I have to agree with the above post. The new welt construction seems to be referenced from Altieri's work. Any thoughts?

[Faust]

hmm. what about new welt? Looks like Simone try to step in Altieri's footprints again.

Can you give some visual comparison?

[Vehk]

Can you give some visual comparison?

no. but if I'm right, CD boots was constructed with Goodyear welt and so all Simone previous seasons. Avantidietro and some Linea stuff was based on a hand stitched welts and now we see it in A1923 boots. memoria is a scandinavian/whateveritname welted footwear, so maybe we'll see this technique in next Simone's seasons.

honestly, I don't want to start ripping/referencing theme again. And there is not so many welt techniques btw. But for me, personally, it looks like Simone takes some direct influences from Altieri's not products but vectors. Altieri creates moria's clear design with a bit of German/Baltic/British vibe, and now Simone presents this new, less scarred and pre-distressed conception.

[lowrey]

I think you are way off.. there aren't that many welts in the world so it seems pretty far fetched to make any conclusions based on who used what welt and when.

A1923's previous seasons had goodyear welts just like they had other welts, for example what looked like blake welts. in fact some of the first Augusta boots I remember seeing in 2008 had a hidden welt. Same for CD, there were different welts throughout the years.

The welt you are referring to with M_moria, I assume, is the norwegian/storm welt, which I don't recall ever seeing on A1923 footwear.

Lastly, I don't know what this "less distressed" concept you mention is - there are plenty of strong treatments and heavily scarred leathers in the new collections.

[drizzly]

agreed that crazy norwegian welt is very uncommon for avant garde designers and again plenty of distressing from Simone this season as well. I personally dont like much of Altieri's stuff.

[Vehk]

well, ok, i've get off the rail a bit. sor.

did a little research this morning and yes, Simone used various welts in previous seasons, my bad.

[Supel]

I find it quite amusing with the amount of people who are in defence with whom created this / started using that type of thing. Not an attack on anyone as I tend to do this myself at times. I've just learnt to deal with it as there are only so many avenues one can go with unconventional techniques to suit the artisinal way. I even find myself slightly in denial about Altieri not producing clothing any more (hopefully in the future) and those out there may feel the same way about CCP not producing frequent enough (for example). It's grand to have the variety though, and I find Simone producing both on an innovative level as well as reproducing inspired pieces which may perhaps be from the roots of Altieri and Poell.