Silent By Damir Doma

[Arcane]

Just to sneak something a bit less discussalve in here. Do anyone have an opinion on the t-shirts? The cotton is kinda interesting as it probably can take a better beating than the finer blends.

[tricotineacetat]

I must assume then that my judgement must be pretty flawed if I found my purchases from +J of pretty good quality and cut, even next to similar pieces from Helmut Lang, Taralis and Dior Homme, which are sitting in the same closet.

Rest assured, those pieces I bought were simple poplin shirts and a solid wool coating blouson that have faithfully followed me the entire winter (the zips are premium YKKs that normally cost at least 1,50€ each), but its exactly those 'solid', nonetheless less labour-intense pieces that +J aims to provide - you would of course not expect properly hand-tailored suiting, coats made from double-faced cashmere coating or shirts whose stripes are perfectly matched during the cutting (a Charvet feature) here, for those pieces clearly cannot fit the frame of industrialized high-quantity productions that Uniqlo's price policy demands for - And even then, the method of making those pieces wouldn't differ from the way Ann's or Dries' designs are being manufactured all across Portugal, Poland, Slovenia, Tunesia, Turkey...

I do happen to know that Jil is decidedly involved in every aspect of the design at +J and it shows in the fact that she still sources the fabrics herself from the same mills that have provided her with shirting, wool coatings and technical nylons from when she designed under her own label - Circumstances are obviously different when you can offer to produce 25000 shirts per season and not 'just' 2500 and when the pieces are not wholesaled to speciality retailers but sold through the same hand, enabling to proceed those savings to the end retail price.

I'm sorry that this view on fashion allows for little romance about artisanship in it's most direct, manual way but there is clearly no way to deny the (dis-)advantages of technologic and economic progression and how they inform the way fashion companies (both fast retailers and luxury goods companies) are working. If one clearly wants to make a political statement and not support such systems, the best way to deal with it would probably be to commission custom made clothes like Adeline Basely's or Boudicca, clothes that will then for sure be made strictly after artisanal principles.

[christianef]

Another problem is more of a philosophical nature, having a relationship with material things that surround you, caring for them. Try throwing out a $1,000 coat - not so easy; you cherish it more, and there is something good about that.

i doubt the people who throw out shirts with the tags on them would cherish the 1000$ coat because of the fabric, cut , construction that makes it that much. not sure theres anything good about that.

[Ochre]

I do happen to know that Jil is decidedly involved in every aspect of the design at +J and it shows in the fact that she still sources the fabrics herself from the same mills that have provided her with shirting, wool coatings and technical nylons from when she designed under her own label

Did you happen to read this information online? I'd love to know where you read this so I could find out more.

[tricotineacetat]

Did you happen to read this information online? I'd love to know where you read this so I could find out more.

I did not read it somewhere but actually coincidently ran into her at a few of these companies' booths during the Paris fabrics tradeshow.

[Chant]

Silent

[Marko]

I really like those light pants there Christian, although I am sure a great deal of this is that you wear DD so well.

[jcotteri]

Christian what size do you wear? If I may ask? in the tees..

[Fade to Black]

looks great, Christian - this silhouette in its entirety is very flattering on you. Particularly like the first look with the light pants as well.

[Chant]

I'm wearing the Tees in sz M.

Tees : different shapes are available : loose fit/slim fit; ovale large neck/ small round neck; short sleeves/mid sleeves/long sleeves. So, many combinations are possible.
Im' wearing a tee in a loose fit/large neck/mid sleeves.

The pants are a kind of anti-fit narrow hemmed drop crotch. They're very easy to wear. I'm wearing a size M in grey/white, and a L in black, iirc.

Sneakers (not shown on the pic, because I forgot to do things properly) are fitting true to size. 3 versions : low, mi-high, high (even though there's not a big difference between mid and high).

My opinion about Silent :
Best deal you can find on the tees and longsleeves : no generic colours, but very nice and original ones, very good cut, nice organic fabric. They're quite long as well, but not too much.

Pants are nice, but rougher than the main line (even though it doesn't make really sense imo to compare both since they're totally different, as Damir does not want Silent to be a diffusion, but an another line with his own features - as we already said : organic fabrics and shapes+ affordable prices). Actually, my impression is that it could be some designer streetwear : for example, pants are made of a heavy cotton, with big back pockets.
But you won't find in any case what makes the "main line" so specific, except maybe in the tees.
Have to say as well that the prices are not so low : 250E for the sneakers, and 250 as well, iirc, for the pants. Has to be confirmed though.

[Fade to Black]

Based on the pics I see here, it seems like a solid wardrobe investment for every-day go-to staples of a higher quality than a chain store. It's the kind of thing I had in mind when news of YY folding last year broke, and I'd hope that there'd be some kind of capsule collection permanently offered which maintained the more basic, fundamental aspects of his design available for everyday life at a reasonable rate but far superior than say, a Muji, while being similarly unfussy.

[humancrack]

did they do any shorts for this season?

[Prototypes]

not sure but a shorts in the peach colourway was featured on dazed.



anyway Christian, you pulled off the baggy pants so well . just a qn though, are the pants button fly or zips?

[xeraphim]

humancrack, the shorts are now up on oki-ni.

[Faust]

I must say, I like the earthy color palette. Feeling that very much these days... Beautiful way to break up the black.