Rick Owens Mens F/W 09/10

[BSR]

just to add a comment on the hammered process. actually, the lamb skin seems like it has been washed to get the soft paper-like aspect that is typical of many Rick's garments, then "hammered" (hit by a blunt object letting the leather with fissures and irregularities), and at the end slightly waxed, both for protection and for the mentioned shiny effect. i like it a lot, it's closer to a second skin than oiled calf which is thicker, but still behaves like a proper leather jacket, unlike the blistered treatment.

[mrbeuys]

it is an extreme case of a piece that works only with other garments from the same designer. and even with the new swing cropped pants or the skirt pants it looks awkward to my taste.

Rats, I was going to write how wrong you are, but actually you are right. Got my Wool Mohair Blazer today and it just doesn't look good on me, even with skorts... Just makes my upper body way short, gives me huge hips - I look like a giant matt black peach.

[Ivans On High]

Can we see a picture? The giant peach concept intrigues me to no end.

[mrbeuys]

Can we see a picture? The giant peach concept intrigues me to no end.

Taking it back tomorrow, will try to get a shot before then.
To be honest, if it was cut a little bit more like the Samurai I am wearing today, it would be perfect, but it's a case of the M being too snug and the L being too big. My neverending Rick dilemma. Need to lose more weight.

Edit: And of course I wanted to write 'giant pear', not peach. Peach would just be weird.

[philip nod]

fruit analogy fail

[beardown]

Can we see a picture? The giant peach concept intrigues me to no end.

I knew a dude named James once who was obsessed with the giant peach concept.

[Faust]

Went to RO to check out the coats today. And here is a lesson I learned all over again - judging clothes by the bad pictures on the Internet is like jerking off to porn instead having sex.

The coats are great - especially the black wool one with the cutaway front. Granted they look silly on a shorty like me in front (but even on me, it looked beautiful from the side and the back), but on someone who is 6ft tall and has enough gusto to pull it off, I think they are fantastic. The pinched waist makes one taller, and the coat is full closed, the oversized lapels are hidden. I concede that the lapels are maybe a bit big, but again, on the right person it'll look great.

[Ivans On High]

Thanks for the info Faust - great to hear a first hand opinion. Did you happen to have a look at the 'drac' coat?

[Faust]

Which one is that?

[kajakuku]

I love this pant

[mrbeuys]

I love this pant

Yeah, it's awesome and I wanted to pair the aforementioned blazer (same material) with mine to have a 'suit'. Took some pics to show you what went wrong...



Front looks ok, back reveals the bell shape that just doesn't work for me. Whatchufink?

[pierce]

I think that those pieces could look well on someone who is over 6" and quite masculine build, to balance out the feminine back shape. Also if everything was scaled down it would be fine and look good on you, but it looks like you are swimming in the clothes. Don't mean to be offensive, but in honesty, we all have to work with what we have got and while these coats look great on the model from the .mac site, they are not so good on us mere mortals.

Which leads to an interesting question, before designers had control of how their designs were presented to the world, be that fashion magazines, catwalk, retail outlet etc. This allowed them to create a world around their designs that they could control the aesthetic of and always show their work in the best possible light. Now though more often than not its on a wywt thread that people see things first or at least more often. Or on a for sale thread hanging against a door in some ones apartment. This kind of nullifies all the effort they put into creating an aesthetic and setting for the clothes. Not that its good or bad, but an observation. Personally, I have been put off lots of designers work because of seeing ill fitting clothes on wywt threads, only to be re-interested when I saw them in their proper context. Maybe designers will put more effort into making clothes that look good on everyone, case in point the above jacket. Or maybe good clothes look good on everyone if they are the right size and having all the fluff of the shop, setting removed makes good designs standout for what they are.

[BSR]

@mrbeuys: what's the size of this blazer? I am unsure that the bell is the real problem, it seems that the jacket is too big. Anyway, it's a trcky cut, and to be fair with Reek, I complained about the boiled one version being awkward on me, and after that I tried on this wool-mohair one, and it was nice, no more bell than SS09 blazers, and a much more slender shape. Did you try to size down?

[BSR]

Which leads to an interesting question, before designers had control of how their designs were presented to the world, be that fashion magazines, catwalk, retail outlet etc. This allowed them to create a world around their designs that they could control the aesthetic of and always show their work in the best possible light. Now though more often than not its on a wywt thread that people see things first or at least more often. Or on a for sale thread hanging against a door in some ones apartment. This kind of nullifies all the effort they put into creating an aesthetic and setting for the clothes. Not that its good or bad, but an observation. Personally, I have been put off lots of designers work because of seeing ill fitting clothes on wywt threads, only to be re-interested when I saw them in their proper context. Maybe designers will put more effort into making clothes that look good on everyone, case in point the above jacket.

+1. That kind of observation has led me to follow 2 buying rules:

1/ Don't buy it if you can't try it.
2/ Don't buy it if you can't really think of the whole outfit(s) it will be part of.

[andrewislasorad]

Yeah, it's awesome and I wanted to pair the aforementioned blazer (same material) with mine to have a 'suit'. Took some pics to show you what went wrong...



Front looks ok, back reveals the bell shape that just doesn't work for me. Whatchufink?

Thanks for posting this up. It does appear that the blazer is just too long in the body and sleeves. The cut and seams of the jacket dont line up and lay on the wrong part of the back. The pants look like they are being worn a bit too high on your waist; need to worn lower on the hips. I also think that you would benefit better from the cropped version on these pants, the full cut legs just look odd to me.

The biggest fail to me is where all the pieces meet: the bottom of the jacket, your tee shirt and the crotch of your pants. You need a clear distinction between each layer, so the jacket should be higher, tee longer and crotch dropped. That is what Rick is after, any other way and I'm afraid it all just looks a mess.



Cliffnotes: Get cropped pants, pull them down, wear a longer tee and ditch the blazer.