Rick Owens Mens F/W 09/10

[Chant]

Originality, to endorse your categories, should be the result of a quest for outfits of your own, and not a given starting point offered by designers, isn't it? Then a minimal versatilty seems required...

I was speaking of the originality of the clothes, and not of the wearer. These are two different things, which have to be distinguished.

The question of the originality of the wearer is a difficult one. I could say, but the response wouldn't be satisfying, that I don't feel less original wearing, for example, the Ann D total look (flower cropped trousers+waistcoat+jacket) than any of my others homemade combinations.

Another unsatisfying response would be that there's no true originality, even here, since everybody's looking - almost - the same : we're all, more or less, "goth-ninja" lookalikes, as people from other forums may describe us.

But the right response is imo that you're truly original when you're wearing things that seem to be designed for you, and fit not only your morphology, carnation and hair colour, but also your "personnality", not the psychological one - or not only - but the aesthetical one, defined by your present and past foliated artistic inclinations and tastes. And the opposite of being original would be, as strange as it sounds, being costumed, even though both notions are, for the common sense, close. A better word should be, if it has the same semantic range than in French, "singularity".

As I already said somewhere else, being interested in fashion makes sense, for me, only when I'm abble to connect the present and actual interest for this specific piece of clothe and the fantasies that are leading, unconsciously, my life, i.e. my way of thinking and feeling, and in which way it fits who I am, but also help me to reinvent myself.

[Chant]

Let's stick to this RO "bell" jacket, which is a perfect example : obviously the piece is not strongly versatile. you can't wear it with slim trousers, even with regular ones. You even can't make it work properly without passing by this "three stages" silhouette Christian was evoking.

No, it works fine as well without any skort : "wide" trousers and jacket are ok.

[Faust]

See mamaboy, and you don't like the French! Just throw three of them in the same thread, and voila! Quality discussion.

[BSR]

Exactly, that's the word. Opposite of sharp. Which begs the question, which is the best suit to wear when your job sometimes feels like you should be wearing a suit, but don't want to appear to wear a suit and no one really expects you to.
I think there's a thread for that, no?

Of course, as the others, I'd say that kind of requirement leads to the sissyp path. If you want to try something different, there is this Julius one for AW09, I'd like to see what it looks like IRL, but I still haven't found other pics and/or online stores carrying it.

[Faust]

/\ Good choice.

[philip nod]

You were looking for an intellectual discussion. Chant started one. There is another one in the Similarities thread. Maybe you are just not looking hard enough?

yeah, i saw chant's description. i was hoping there was more of an articulated position re designers. if this is about RO. then imo you pay more or you are paying for more versatility, if this is about ccp, then the reverse. but that seemed too obvious... glad there's good conversation happening, hopefully it will continue

[christianef]

To clarify is there a difference between total look and total aesthetic? You don’t have to look farther than this forum or a boutique like Atelier to see how several different designers can be mixed and matched to more or less achieve the same end aesthetic. Would wearing a CDG pleated kilt or over long ann shirt instead of the RO 'skort' still be subscribing to the total look idea because they generally achieve the same aesthetic/silhouette, or does total look only apply to wearing everything by the same designer?

[almroth]

I personally don't think it only applies to wearing the same designer, im very fond of people daring to mix/match different designers into something that I would view as a specific "look." but that could just be how I see it in my mind.

I think atelier is great. they stock a variety of designers which could easily compliment eachother with the right creativity. It's professional and smart.

[BeauIXI]

I was speaking of the originality of the clothes, and not of the wearer. These are two different things, which have to be distinguished.

The question of the originality of the wearer is a difficult one. I could say, but the response wouldn't be satisfying, that I don't feel less original wearing, for example, the Ann D total look (flower cropped trousers+waistcoat+jacket) than any of my others homemade combinations.

Another unsatisfying response would be that there's no true originality, even here, since everybody's looking - almost - the same : we're all, more or less, "goth-ninja" lookalikes, as people from other forums may describe us.

But the right response is imo that you're truly original when you're wearing things that seem to be designed for you, and fit not only your morphology, carnation and hair colour, but also your "personnality", not the psychological one - or not only - but the aesthetical one, defined by your present and past foliated artistic inclinations and tastes. And the opposite of being original would be, as strange as it sounds, being costumed, even though both notions are, for the common sense, close. A better word should be, if it has the same semantic range than in French, "singularity".

As I already said somewhere else, being interested in fashion makes sense, for me, only when I'm abble to connect the present and actual interest for this specific piece of clothe and the fantasies that are leading, unconsciously, my life, i.e. my way of thinking and feeling, and in which way it fits who I am, but also help me to reinvent myself.

This is exactly what I've been advocating lately, no thunder stolen, naturally.

[pierce]

What you also have to remember is that men have worn suits and uniforms since time and memorium, maybe rick is designing in this way, the pieces work only as a whole outfit, might not be too crazy an idea considering there is certainly a military theme going on ;)

[editevening]

diverting the conversation, can anyone tell me how many swing/skirt pant variations are there? I recall seeing a blistered lamb version of the paneled swing pant (or at least i think i do- i was in a rush) at La Foret but i haven't seen that online anywhere.

I'm trying to decide which one to pick up. cheers.

[BSR]

diverting the conversation, can anyone tell me how many swing/skirt pant variations are there? I recall seeing a blistered lamb version of the paneled swing pant (or at least i think i do- i was in a rush) at La Foret but i haven't seen that online anywhere.

I'm trying to decide which one to pick up. cheers.

First there are 2 sorts of skirt pants: the cropped ones and the long ones.
1) The cropped ones are a new version of the usual RO drop crotch shorts. I think they are the ones you're after. They are composed of two parts, the top part, which looks like a short, always cotton made, falling nicely on the bottom part, i.e. the legs, which can be either wool-mohair, or silk, or leather. The leather version is the best imo (washed lamb on front part, blistered lamb on the rear part!), but the others are nice too.
2) the long ones are mostly pictured on RO NYC pics, a long black pair of pants, with a skirt attached on top of them. They are also on oki-ni. I have not seen them IRL yet, so I can't say much about them.

Here are pics of the leather version of 1)

[editevening]

awesome thx! ya was looking at the long pants found on oki & komakino but the leather cropped versions look like what i saw in person.

[philip nod]

ro nyc store has version with a free floating skirt and a leather skirt. neither have back pockets which is a killer

[sargon97]

Anyone know who is selling the Hi-collar Intarsia in Oiled Calf this season?