Designers/Brands You Want to Love but Can't

[inaya]

yeah... generally, I tend to look at things pretty objectively, but I am also in fashion journalism. hehe :p


ETA: Of course, I love some designers more than others, but that was sort of my point: I like something or I don't. because I respect and admire some designers more than others, it doesn't mean that I examine the bad any less than the good. also, there can be hidden gems in bad collections once in a while :)

[orphée]

Well, I may be further from the source, but I am not any further from the stocklists!

I think you just have to try being as objective as you can. I've had to swallow the hard truth that Ann's and Raf's work is not what it used to be. It does not diminish my admiration for them as people and designers given their oeuvre and their roles in fashion, but it does diminish the amount of Faustian dollars that goes towards their garments (I haven't bought a Raf piece in about 3 years - I actually no longer search for him on Ebay). One can only hope that a new wave of designers will appear and will take their place. Although I can't name one recent star that has endured - Hedi Slimane and Alexander Plokhov, where are they? I think Rick Owens is our best bet - although I do think he's either a) not talented enough to be the grand master or b) got too comfortable too soon and has no incentive to push himself in terms of design or c) all of the above. I am still talking menswear here, by the way. Between Watanabe, Chalayan, and McQueen, the women are covered.

You know, as ephemeral as fashion may be, it is one pair of spectacles through which we view the world round us....I do admit that I attach too much loyalty to certain designers. Thanks for the clarity, though. I think I've been avoiding Rick Owens for just that reason. I don't want to be disappointed. Of course I can counter the whole thing by not spending any more on defunct designers, but at the end of the day, one opens the closet and sees what one might deem 'failures'...it's quite close at hand. I have, however, learnt to be much more selective. But then again, that just seems too serious. Not that I'm looking for a happy medium, though. It's apparently all part of the process.

[baby]

Personally, there are no brands/designers like this. For me, fashion likes and dislikes are instantaneous and impulsive... which is how I think it should be. Fashion is art, it should either strike a chord in you or not and I don't think it should be forced or contrived beyond the initial feeling you get. I never question the taste of others because I feel personal style should be just that; personal. I'll never understand the way of trying to like something, I think people should trust their instincts, it's the only way to find your own true and pure tastes and style.

yeah, but i think the point of the thread was more like: bands you like but wouldn't pay to see live. fashion is art and a painting can strike a chord but that doesn't mean it looks all that great over the gas fire place in your living room. and personal style is personal, but people have mixed feelings about shit all the time. its not fashion likes and dislikes its fashions likes and fashion fucking LOVES TO DEATH.

[reborn]

The difficulty of menswear

I agree with the assessments on menswear. There's a lack of menswear "superstar" designers...However, American sportswear is going as strong as ever: Thom Browne, Michael Bastian, Tim Hamilton, Rag & Bone and Adam Kimmel. Yeah, all of those listed have interesting fabrics, construction and twists on classics...but really, how revolutionary is it?

I think, while important to the american image, few of those American menswear designers are inspiring. Aside from some accesories, the occasional knitwear piece, or deeply discounted item at Bergdorfs, I do not find their clothing exciting.

Directional tailoring, experimental silhouettes, made in France or Japan...That's interesting.

[Faust]

bump for new members.

[quiet noise]

i usaly dont get along with anything that doesnt express anything more than just labeling you a "fashion victim". for example, i have owned a few rick jackets but tbh they just made me feel uncomfortable, i felt like they kind of "stole the show". I like neutral clothes wich in some way refers to classic designs. Overdone stuff never works out for me

[ironman]

not so much i wish i could love, but i wish i could wear? those would be things like comme des garcons, walter van beirendonck, bernhard willhelm; essentially brands i like but would label a bit funky

that's all i can think of off the top of my head. perhaps i should try them out sometime, as i do like some diversity in style though. start off with some funky beirendonck tees maybe lol

[soultek]

Lanvin. I don't understand the point of luxury for men. If this is an unfair categorization, then someone please enlighten me because I don't get it. I suppose there are themes of boyishness in there but nothing that resonates with me. Some of the runway looks are nice, but I tend to attribute it to styling rather than design prowess which is why I am always disappointed when seeing the garments in person.

[AKA*NYC]

since this thread is back up let me confess:

1) ann d: no matter what i see or try on i just don't get it. not a single piece i've handled has ever truly resonated with me. recently i spent a good part of an hour trying waistcoats and meh. but that's just me. i've also observed that the sort of ectomorphic individual who wears ann well (chant) usually looks good in just about anything. the fact that he's in ann is beside the point.

2) yohji: again i understand the aesthetic but can't connect. the billowy clothes strike me as comfortable but contrived. i like the hats sort of.

3) margiela: snare roll followed by a cymbal clash: okay i get it. too gimmicky for my taste.

the comments above concern menswear only. i like the womenswear from all of these designers. yohji is my wife's favorite.

edit: i agree with you guys about lanvin but the title of this thread precludes me from including it in my list.

[howinpark]

Lanvin, Dries, MMM.
Lanvin is always too shiny for me... to luxurious and bright.
Its sometimes too adultish..I mean by saying its too old guy looking times to times.
Dries... Im not sure why but I just always pass'em. I think the name of the brand itself gives the lightness.
MMM. Always like their stuff.. but always stop at the price.
They are somewhat innovative and clean. Like JS or Raf Simons. But when I try on and look at the price tag, it does no good to me.

[howinpark]

I have to second this. I feel the same about Ann, and I really want to love it ( and I do as well love the womens wear).

And about Lanvin, it looks good but too feminine ( nothing wrong with it, but I can't see myself wearing it). Thats how I feel about a lot of designers though.

definitely looking for that word feminine
Of course nothing wrong..but I just can't afford the feminine there.
Being feminine could go with Les Hommes too i guess.

[Faust]

Yea, Raf is now up there. It's hard to even say that I want to like it anymore. When I find myself no longer looking for Raf's pieces on Ebay, I feel sad.

AKA, Ann loves Leonard! ;-). I wonder what you will think about the next season, because I think the last 2.5 years were not very exciting and sometimes lacked quality. I think with this collection Ann hit it out of the fucking park and went back to pre-stand-alone-menswear-show days. But you do also strike as a more of a casual guy rather than a tailoring guy.

[justine]

Francies. I wish I could love it, but.

[jordache jeans]

Raf just doesnt work on anyone over 30. I realized that when I hit 31.

[Jon]

Raf just doesnt work on anyone over 30. I realized that when I hit 31.

lolz. I'm curious to hear in which sense.. I've actually seen myself progressing towards his more tailored work as I get older. Or at least his older work in that vein. And I dig Kunk in his stuff. I can't even fit my thighs in any of dude's skinny pants (without alterations), so what can I say...