Collateral (1st Iteration)

[maldoror]

[Chinorlz]

You guys are crazy :)

Sorry I've been gone for the last week and a half. Life has been... eventful as it would be. Posted it all in the Randomness thread.

To stay on topic here though, although I was laid up mostly, I was able to complete the military blanket coat and will post photos of it this evening!

[DHC]

You guys are crazy :)

Sorry I've been gone for the last week and a half. Life has been... eventful as it would be. Posted it all in the Randomness thread.

To stay on topic here though, although I was laid up mostly, I was able to complete the military blanket coat and will post photos of it this evening!

In a major car accident with injuries (glad they weren't severe) and still working on Collateral pieces? You take the cake when it comes to crazy my friend. Can't wait to see pics, but foremost hope that you've completely recovered from the accident.

[Chinorlz]

In a major car accident with injuries (glad they weren't severe) and still working on Collateral pieces? You take the cake when it comes to crazy my friend. Can't wait to see pics, but foremost hope that you've completely recovered from the accident.

Slowly but surely. Triple strength Ibuprofen, Vicodin and valium keep me moving.

The designing keeps me going and my mind off of the ridiculousness of everything :)

Going home in just a bit so I'll post a slew of photos real soon!

[Chinorlz]

As promised, the coat construction process. First, the hardware which is a clean, filed hook with double holes drilled into the base for installation. The hook was constructed, filed, then heavily oxidized for some lovely color changes:

[Chinorlz]

The coat process began with a pure muslin pinning using large sheets of muslin on a mannequin, pinned in the way I wanted the coat to structure basically:




The muslin was then cut how I wanted it to and then a paper pattern was constructed from it.

Muslin versions of the coat were then made, readjusted on the paper pattern and then remade to confirm the fit and sizing (sleeves had to be slimmed down from the existing pattern and arm holes adjusted along with back/neck contouring to make it more anatomical).

Then the pieces were cut from the Vietnam war era military blankets along with the black deerskin and the construction process began.

[Chinorlz]

No real photos of the sewing process... it's just sewing really. Pinning and sewing. A lot of hand-stitch reinforcements were done for the slit "pockets" and the inner shoulder/neck lining piece was anchored with a hand-braided thread.


The two muslin versions and the completed coat.





Coat reversed on the interior.

[Chinorlz]

Details:








The back lining of the neck/shoulder/upper back was done to make the collar line cleaner and also build structure into the standing collar. At the same time, it was constructed to follow the trapezius muscles of the back.

The sleeves are two piece construction with curving seams and slightly angled elbows.

The coat is based loosely on the classic lab coat/doctors coat and the key piece I integrated into the design to show this was the side slit "pockets." In a lab coat there are slits that allow you to access the pockets of your pants through the long coat which was a design that I always liked. I put them in this coat and reinforced the on the inside with deerskin.

The classic hook-eye closure is done through nearly invisible slits in the coat and reinforced on the interior with a single leather strip. The front left chest has a large chest plate with a continuous leather strip that tapers from it down to the hem of the coat. I fully lined the left sleeve with deerskin which gives a feel of "protection". Both arm hole seams are hand stitch lined with deerskin as well.

I chose the materials I did not only because of the feel and look but because of what they are. Both of these pieces embody violence, death and destruction yet come together to form something clean; something to be filled with the life of the wearer. Who knows what the military blanket has "seen" and experienced, but it carries with it the weight of those it kept warm and the things it has been through. I'd like to think that these fabrics and materials bring an interesting level to the clothes much like the vintage elephant leather I also use does. The all carry a history that is older than many of us on here and to me take on a deeper meaning.

At the same time, the blankets I used in the construction were likely doomed to languish in some basement to fall apart and get moth-eaten (which many parts were... it took three blankets to get enough good fabric to construct the coat) and turning them into something wearable breathes new life and gives them new meaning.

[Chinorlz]

This undertaking was brought to you by double strength motrin, vicodin and valium :)

[sshum88]

Very nice work. I liked how you re-used the blankets for this as well as incorporating the little tiny details. Now how much would something like this cost?

[zamb]

Albert.
I like this piece alot, probably my favorite peice after seeing it along with everything else. I also like the inside more than the outside (my avante garde leanings?). You are learning/ doing alot, which leads me to something I have wanted to say for a long time........... For all aspiring designers out there, please please, learn how do drape and to sew. My friend here didn't go to fashion school, he is a MED. student, and my friend you are BETTERRRRRRRRRRR than alot of students i've seen with four year degrees. good to see you teaching yourself pattern making and draping, and having the patience to go through the proper steps of getting the pattern right (still not perfect yet, but practicing healthy habits) before sewing the garment.
there are a few things......... I will PM you about those,
Also, sorry to hear about your accident, Glad you are OK, and may the God of Heaven grant you long life, happiness and safety.............you have alot to contribute to humankind and I hope to see you live to do so.......................

[ddohnggo]

seriously, this thing is pretty crazy. looks really great. you should post a fit picture of it.

[maldoror]

looks like that opiate + benzo combo worked wonders for your process.
beautiful work, and fit pic request seconded!

[delirium]

looks great.

i'm still jonesing for the doctor's bag.

be well!

[howinpark]

Pure amazement.

I can't wait to see fit pics and other 'how to make..' stuff